View Full Version : Winterizing a 2013 Laredo 292RL????

01-26-2013, 11:13 AM
We just traded our Wildcat for a new 2013 Laredo 292RL. It was a great floorplan. We knew that Laredo is an entry level trailer and were prepared for a few issues, but the winterzing situation for this model is DISGUSTING!!!!!!. It has a 5" hole inside the front under-belly to reach in and drag out a siphon hose for the antifreeze. Then your supposed to reach the hot water heater where there is only one shutoff valve ( turned in the away position ) and FOUR FEET inside the little hole????? Keystone engineers must have LONG ARMS/ I can't even reach the hot water heater when I take the entire cover off that side of the underbelly.
I called the customer support desk, talked to a woman that said there was a winterzing compartment next to my dump valves on the outside.. No Sorry!! Nothing on the outside. Evidently she does not know anything about this model. I called back talked to another lady that was familar with my model. She said that only one valve on the cold because the hot had a anti siphon valve to keep the antifreeze from going into the hot water tank. When I asked how to get to the one valve, she said try taking a step pannel off from the inside? That is 5 feet away? Does anyone at the Keystone factory know anything or even care. I have buyers remorse and haven't even spent one night in the trailer. Makes me wish I had considered Heartland or Forrest River more and not shopped floor plan. Anyone had any experience similar?

01-26-2013, 11:48 AM
I am not familiar with the layout of your Laredo but you should have reachable access to the back of your HW tank where the bypass valve is located on many HW tanks. Some members have had difficulty finding the access because the rear of the HW tank is often found behind a removable panel, drawer or partition of some sort.
I have never heard of anyone having to crawl underneath and remove a portion of black coroplast underbelly to carry out any stage of the winterizing process. The low-point drains and FW tank drain valve are underneath the unit but are quite accessible and visible in most cases.
I don't have a "central winterizing station" on our '08 Cougar as I have to visit the water pump and the rear of the HW tank (both of which are inside the unit but behind removable panels and crawl underneath to deal with the low-point drains and FW tank.

I don't think winterizing the Laredo should be that difficult and that much different than other models.

Did you happen to ask about the winterizing process when you did your pre-delivery inspection? If so, what were you told by the service tech who did the walk-through with you? Unfortunately, the owner's manual won't be of much help as it is pretty much generic and will only provide you with general information - nothing specific.

Hopefully, other Laredo owners will chime in and offer some suggestions. Don't give up on your unit yet. There is a way around this - it can't be that hard.

And...welcome to the forum!!

01-26-2013, 06:42 PM
Thanks for the reply. The walk around at delivery is where we were shown the little hole in the storage area to get to the valve. I removed the wall liner inside the storage compartment (not the floor area). The lady at keystone customer relations said it was a problem - but no one seems very concerned. I'm not used to an attitude like Keysone when I spend that kind of money. I have an appointment at a Forrest River dealership on Mon. to get everything moved to a new access hole that I will have cut. I should have refused the trailer at delivery time---- my mistake and I get to pay for it. Dean's RV in Tulsa is not the place to get any help or buy a new trailer.

01-27-2013, 05:43 AM
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your new Loredo. I can only imagine your frustration. However, you may want to step back and think about having the plumbing modified by anyone other than a Keystone authorized dealer as it may result in voiding your warranty. Just food for thought - FWIW. Good luck and please let everyone here know how you fare:)

01-27-2013, 03:09 PM
I have the 245RL. I took the screw out of the panel in front of the water heater and just set the panel aside. Easy access to the bypass valve now and plans to make all that newly-revealed empty space usable one of these days. For the antifreeze draw tube and bypass valve, someone (here, maybe) posted pics of replacing that silly little flap of plastic excuse of an access port with a real hinged marine-style access port. ... Another item on my "one of these days" project list.

03-31-2013, 02:39 PM
I have an 08 Laredo 311RL Travel Trailer. I had a hard time last fall late finding my bypass valve. This was my first year with it so first winterizing also. I found the water heater isolation valves and the bypass valve under my fridge. I had to remove 6 screws and pull a panel off near the floor. I remember thinking that this was not very friendly. The isolation valves were easy to turn, but the bypass required pliers to turn. I was worried that I would snap the handle off. I did get it closed and have left the panel off until time to de-winterize. I should spend some time looking at what I can do to improve this.

03-31-2013, 07:42 PM
When I had a Heartland, I use to have to empty one side of the front storage, climp in and remove a wall to get to the WH to turn the valves. Not the best but was able to do it. In the new Premier, the HW looks easy to get to just removing a panel in the kitchen. The pump is next to the bed I am told, looks like I have to remove 4-6 screws and the top of the bedside table, hoping that the pump has the easy hose for winterizing.

I would think twice before going to a Forest River dealer.

04-15-2013, 07:41 PM
We just picked up our new Laredo 292RL late this afternoon. It is exactly what we have been looking for in a floorplan and price range. :hpyclp:

My DH is also DISGUSTED :banghead: with the winterizing setup on this 2013 rig. This is our first Keystone. We traded our Heartland Big Country and have owned 3 Forest River products before that.

We, too, are wondering what kind of designer/engineer :bfart: devised such a ridiculous setup - the Universal Docking Centers :thumbsup: are the only way to go! I hope I can find a common sense suggestion as to how we can doctor our brand new rig to facilitate proper winterization without the hiring of a contortionist.

We have learned our lesson and will not tolerate such ridiculousness on the next purchase a few years down the road...

Alison & David
Georgia, VT
2011 GMC Sierra Diesel Crew
2013 Laredo 292RL
2009 Big Country 3490RB
2006 Sandpiper
2002 Wildcat
2000 Salem
1996 Prowler

04-16-2013, 12:52 AM
I have never purchased a trailer sight-unseen. So I've never experienced frustration with design of its components.

04-16-2013, 03:43 AM
Personally, I would much rather be happy with the overall camper and floor plan in which I spend countless hours and spend an extra effort to prepare it for winter, compared to, putting up with a floor plan the majority of the time I use it but spend 20 minutes less getting it ready for winter!

04-16-2013, 05:31 AM
I agree. I don't think I have bought a hammer at a hardware store without holding it first to see how it feels, I know my DW won't buy an apple or a head of lettuce without going through to find "the right ones" I'd be very VERY reluctant (means NEVER) to buy such a significant investment without knowing about it first.

04-16-2013, 05:47 AM
Now folks, maybe, just maybe, these new buyers of a Keystone loved the floorplan and have seen similar units on display which convinced them to purchase.

When I bought my Outback 5er, winterizing was never a thought and it was not brought up. I met with the division head of Outback along with the dealer at the RV Show in Louisville and bought the show model. It has served us very well. As I age, now 70, it does require more effort to crawl under that rv. (and yes, I am in good physical shape). So, I have found that the newer models now have made an effort to make the winterizing and draining of tanks, etc, a more tolerable task.

Would I buy another Keystone without a newer set up; you betcha. BUT, there may come a time when a different system will be a MUST.

To each his own. :D

04-16-2013, 06:28 AM
My Laredo is very easy to winterize. Just remove one panel in the basement and all the components are right there for a quick job. I had you experience with our previous Forest River junk.

04-16-2013, 10:50 AM
We are happy with our purchase. My DH is concerned that he cannot reach the hot water heater valve. Is there no Keystone rep on this forum? Or someone with a remedy to this unfortunate design flaw?

04-16-2013, 11:59 AM
We are happy with our purchase. My DH is concerned that he cannot reach the hot water heater valve.
As several others have mentioned, there is a high probability that the back side of the water heater is easily accessed inside the trailer through a removable panel or a drawer that can be pulled out of its cabinet. I think that there is too much emphasis and thought given to the futility of reaching the back of the heater from the outside. There is an access inside.

Is there no Keystone rep on this forum? Or someone with a remedy to this unfortunate design flaw?
It's been repeatedly stated here in numerous responses to the same question in most every sub-forum that Keystone does not monitor keystonerv.org. If you want a response from Keystone, you will have to contact Keystone directly and don't stop at the first person that you talk with. Asking for a Keystone rep here is a further exercise in futility.

I've owned travel trailers for 40 years now. I have never seen one that did not have a convenient access to the water heater bypass. For example, in my '99 Sunline, the water heater was under the bed and appeared accessible only by crawling well into the storage from the outside hatch. But on closer inspection, I discovered a properly placed 6" hole in the bed platform directly above the water heater. By moving the mattress aside, I could easily reach the valves through that hole. Problem solved. Actually the problem never existed. I just didn't look in the right place at first.

In my Cougar, the water pump seems completely hidden and unreachable. Oh wait, there is a small panel in the basement directly behind the water connection area that is easily removed with a #2 square head driver. And there's the water pump, easily reached to install a winterizing kit. And just beyond it, I can see the back of the water heater. But the water heater is kind of hidden in the back of the kitchen cupboard below the sink. If I look into the compartment, I don't see anything but storage area. But if I stick my head just a bit further into the cabinet, the water heater is sitting right there behind a cabinet support. No panel to remove, it's wide open. Again, I just needed to look a little closer.

What I am trying to say as supportively as I can is that there is almost certainly a convenient access somewhere in your rig. Like I have told quite a few people who have asked the same question, I am suggesting that you look a little closer.

06-17-2013, 11:22 AM
I'm new to the forum, but I've had a lot of Rv's. I've always done the bypass/pink stuff until this one. The dealer in Minot ND said they will ONLY winterize with air. 60 psi for 30 min or so until no water is spitting from anything. (Don't forget the outside shower). I have an adapter from my air hose to water hose with a regulator at the air source. Attach to the city water inlet. Drain the water tank and the hot water heater, replace the drain plugs and turn on the air. I have done this twice thru two Montana winters and it seems to work fine with a lot less work, especially in the spring when you de-winterize.

06-17-2013, 11:25 AM
I should add that after draining the fresh water tank and the hot water heater, you need to run your 12v water pump out of water also.

11-23-2013, 04:34 PM
I have a 2011 Laredo Keystone and I could not figure out how to get to the water heater to winterize my rig and I saw the posts here yesterday and decided I would figure it out today. Well I looked through the hole in my storage area and saw the water heater and removed that panel, it had 10 screws. after removing it I just flipped the 1/4 turn valve to by pass the heater tank, after removing the tank drain plug, also saw the water pump, which had a 1/4 turn valve and a hose for the antifreeze. Went inside and turned the pump switch on and began pumping the fluid through each faucet. Oh, I drained the water tank first. Used almost 2 gal. Hardest part was getting the 10 panel screws out, nothing in the owners manual told me about the panel.

Ken / Claudia
11-23-2013, 07:23 PM
I just read this post from the 1st and we will never really know was said at the time of purchase. I have met people who when I start to explain something to them, they say I know, I know and I stop explaining. They than come back and to ask questions because they did not know how to do it and were not able or willing to listen when I tried to instruct them. Was that what could have happened at purchase. Someone at the lot would know how the trailer works and what needs to be done.
Also, when I have a problem, I phone the dealer to whom I spend my money(car, boat, rv) and ask for the service dept. I did not want to talk to anyone who needs to look up the same information in the same booket that I have. He said he phoned the keystone customer service dept., I am guessing here but, I doubt that person ever worked on or fixed/repaired any trailer.

01-02-2014, 04:43 PM
I'll tell you what I would do. if it is that hard to get to the necessary valves, I would take it into the dealers every year and pay the $50 to let them winterize the unit. Period!

01-05-2014, 04:34 PM
I've just been re-reading my post and the responses from 2013. My DH has always taken care of the winterizing of our campers back to 1999. We have never encountered such a ridiculous set-up. :confused:

I can only presume that we have never actually owned an entry-level rig before. We have avoided Keystone products for different reasons over the years concerning quality - specifically the bouncy squeaky floors - which incidentally we now have. I am sorry that we were persuaded to bite the bullet this time around. :(

There are better rigs by other manufacturers in similar price ranges. On the prowl again for something different.

01-06-2014, 01:31 PM
I have only owned two campers since we began camping ten years ago.

First one we kept 4 years but wanted something bigger. Went from a 21 ft Hybrid to our current fiver. Which we bought May 2007 and still have and use.

Not all campers are perfect. I don't know of any brand that doesn't have issues
of some kind with some people.

I love my Keystone and would definitely get another one. I am sorry you are disappointed with yours.


Northern Pike
10-06-2014, 05:36 PM
we bot a 2013 292RL and winterizing was a breeze, the dealer had ordered the bypass kit as any dealer in Canada should. opened the little door in the storage bin and there i found 2 valves, 1 to bypass the hot water tank and 1 to bypass the main water tank. there was 3' of hose sitting there that i stuck into the antifreeze jug, open the taps,and 5 minutes later i was done. so it seems to me the dealer has to order the option or you won't have it.

10-07-2014, 09:36 AM
Guess I'm lucky. We enjoy our Cougar even though there are a few things we would change (life is like that). The floors seem to be robust and the winterizing process was straightforward, too. The dealer was our biggest complaint, and the experience would have been worse had we not been as pro-active as we were before, during and after the delivery process.