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Old 05-31-2011, 07:18 PM   #1
therink
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
Slide out side wall water leak/delamination

Hi RV veterans. I need advice.
I have a 2010 Outback 5er (3 months out of warranty). This weekend after heavy rain, I was sitting in the campground doing what I do best when I looked over at the lower front wall of my rear slideout and noticed a very faint bubble or bulge (about 3" x 5"- you have to look real close in photo to see the outline of the expanded wall area) near the lower molding/drip edge. Also noticed that there was a small 1/4" void in the caulking where the upper molding meets the lower slide wall. Also noticed that the outer molding screw was protruding about 1/16" (not all the way tight). See photos. This made me sick. I looked at the same molding on my buddy's Jayco and noticed there is putty tape behind every one of them. I checked the carpet and inside wall and everything was dry.The floor underneath the slide (above the black fabric/barrier) feels hard. I think I caught this early enough to be a real issue, as I would have noticed it earlier. I notice anything abnormal on my rig, plus I just waxed and detailed every outside surface two weeks ago. I know I could call Keystone and plead my case to have it fixed 3 months past my warranty, but I really don't want to do this. I also feel my dealer is incompetent to do this kind of repair and I am putting it mildly. I am very handy at this kind of thing, plus I dont think there is any serious damage to the sidewall wood. I am thinking of first pulling off the molding along the affected edge and check the subfloor edge for softness, etc. If damage appears to be bad, I will likely stop there and consider calling Keystone. If everything looks OK, I will purchase and install 1/8" thigh putty tape on the sidewall before putting the molding back on. Actually thinking of removing the molding (6 in all) on all three of my slides and installing the putty tape. If water got behind this one, eventually the caulking will deteriorate at the others and cause the same problem.
I am thinking that I am not the only one to have this problem. Why Keystone wouldn't use the putty tape behind a drip edge is beyond me. It is just a claim waiting to happen. They use it everywhere else on sidewalls (windows, outlet boxes, etc)./ Dont get me wrong. I love my Keystone for the way we use it. I take good care of it and have only had few problems that were resolved by Keystone without hassle. My dealer is a whole another story.
Any repair advice?
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Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Outback Sydney 340FBH (12,280 lbs loaded-scale)

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, SRW, Duramax, CC, SB (payload 3700)

https://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...65/340FBH1.jpg
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Old 07-23-2011, 05:36 PM   #2
kevkad
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 2
same issue.

How did you repair the leak? I have a 2010 3500RE and I just noticed that I have the same problem. I am about 2 months out of warranty.
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:12 PM   #3
therink
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
Hi
I bought roll of putty tape and a tube of proflex even sealant. Removed the lower trim piece (several screws then carefully pried it off, not to bend it). Removed old putty tape from back of strip, what little there was. Cleaned up and removed old caulk from lower wall surfaces. Pried out lower wall and peeked up inside to make sure there wasn't any rot or water damage (luckily there wasn't as I caught it soon enough). Applied new putty tape to back of strip. I used putty tape that was wider than the strip.
Reinstalled strip. I dipped the screws into a dab of proflex before screwing in. Once the strip was secure and tight, I cut off excess putty tape along the strip edges, then applied a thin bead of proflex along strip edges.
When using proflex, you have to work fast and apply dish soap on your finger when smoothing it out. It sets up fast. Also have some rags and paint thinner handy to wipe up excess caulk.
While I had the caulk out, I went ahead and applied it to other slide wall strips where caulk looked insufficient. I will now be watching these slide walls like a hawk. From what I gave read, it doesn't take much water to ruin a slide out floor. In my opinion, the lack of an adequate drip edge that keeps water from flowing or wicking under the slide floor is a poor design. I guess you can say, I have now become a caulk nazi.
Good luck and let me know if any questions.
Steve
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Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Outback Sydney 340FBH (12,280 lbs loaded-scale)

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, SRW, Duramax, CC, SB (payload 3700)

https://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...65/340FBH1.jpg
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:28 PM   #4
kevkad
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Location: Biloxi, MS
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Steve,

Thanks for the quick reply and thanks for the good advice. I will be tackling this next weekend.

Thanks!
Kevin
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:51 AM   #5
Carl79
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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I had almost the same problem and after reading your advice I think I might consider this.
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:14 AM   #6
Mistral
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Montreal (Quebec)
Posts: 26
Hi !
I have to do this job too but my white trim has rollers to keep it straight when it comes IN, in other words, the slide-out is between these two rollers and rolling on the white trim so how do I remove the trim ?

My problem is the water passing trought the black plastic sheet under the trim.

Sorry for my bad english

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