Installing backup camera (not pre-wired)

[RKDowner]

2014 Keystone Hideout 23RKS, so not pre-wired for a camera. I'm trying to figure out how best to route the wire from the back to the tongue. I'm looking for advice from anyone who's done this. I've researched this, of course, and everyone is vague, probably because this is so trailer specific.

Some say through the "attic" is best but that seems impossible to me (I repaired a damaged roof section last summer, so I know what it looks like in there). Even if I could manage that I don't know how I'd get the wire from the attic to the tongue.

Others say to attach it to a frame rail. I could drop it through the refrigerator vent at the back and drill a hole to get it out through the floor, so that's doable, but how best to attach the wire from there to the tongue? Drill into the frame every two feet and ziptie? Eternabond tape? Bubble gum and bailing wire?

I'm putting solar on it soon (how I discovered the roof damage) and from that learned the most common ways to attach solar wiring are Eternabond tape, blobs of Dicor sealant every two feet or so, or zipties every two feet or so. So another option is across the roof and down the front edge of the trailer to the tongue. I'll be running wires on the roof anyway, but I'm not happy about the 'down the front to the tongue' part.

Personally the frame route is most appealing except for the part where I have to get under the trailer and do it . Does anyone have any experience with this they can share? The last thing I want is the wire coming loose, flapping in the wind, and damaging something. Thanks!

[flybouy]

Google "trailer frame wire clips" and you'll find the easiest thing to use. They snap on the edge of the frame rail and hold the wire. They are very inexpensive.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by RKDowner

2014 Keystone Hideout 23RKS, so not pre-wired for a camera. I'm trying to figure out how best to route the wire from the back to the tongue. I'm looking for advice from anyone who's done this. I've researched this, of course, and everyone is vague, probably because this is so trailer specific.

Some say through the "attic" is best but that seems impossible to me (I repaired a damaged roof section last summer, so I know what it looks like in there). Even if I could manage that I don't know how I'd get the wire from the attic to the tongue.

Others say to attach it to a frame rail. I could drop it through the refrigerator vent at the back and drill a hole to get it out through the floor, so that's doable, but how best to attach the wire from there to the tongue? Drill into the frame every two feet and ziptie? Eternabond tape? Bubble gum and bailing wire?

I'm putting solar on it soon (how I discovered the roof damage) and from that learned the most common ways to attach solar wiring are Eternabond tape, blobs of Dicor sealant every two feet or so, or zipties every two feet or so. So another option is across the roof and down the front edge of the trailer to the tongue. I'll be running wires on the roof anyway, but I'm not happy about the 'down the front to the tongue' part.

Personally the frame route is most appealing except for the part where I have to get under the trailer and do it . Does anyone have any experience with this they can share? The last thing I want is the wire coming loose, flapping in the wind, and damaging something. Thanks!

Few, if any, Keystone trailers were "prewired for a rear camera" in 2014. I selected a "wired rear camera" for my 2014 Cougar because back then, few "wireless camera systems" actually worked. I drilled a 1" hole in the rear wall, 6" under the center clearance light, ran the camera wire into the galley overhead cabinets, then to the pantry cabinet and then down to the floor, under the trailer, along the frame rail to the front passthrough, then up and to the pinbox and then to the truck frame and then to the monitor through a "drain hole/freeze plug" in the floor of the truck cab.

You can mount your camera in a similar location under the center clearance light, then into the galley overhead cabinet, toward the curb side and then down the back of the refrigerator rear space and under your trailer. From there, along the frame rails and along the A-frame to the tongue and on to your tow vehicle....

All that said, today's "wireless camera/monitor kits" are SIGNIFICANTLY improved. Have you considered simply mounting the camera under the center clearance light and connecting the power leads to the center light ???

That would significantly reduce your "wiring issues" as you'd only need to work with less than a 12 inch wire run..... Just turn on the clearance lights and your camera is "on and ready"....

[flybouy]

Like John I tried a wireless camera and it was not up to the task years ago. I bought a wired camera that has a microphone built in. I wire tied the wire to the gas line as it goes back to the rear bumper for the BBQ grill. Also had some 1" square tubing laying around that I welded to the spare tire carrier. I welded a small 1/4"plate on top to mount the camera on. It's a good height for my use and it doesn't interfere with the opening of the window above it.

[GlasNav]

Am I missing something? Why not simply remove the center rear clearance light and tap power from that? If that's doable drop down a couple of inches and mount your camera and snake a wire behind the exterior between the camera and light. Or are you looking to install a wired video device. The new wireless cameras work fine.

[glock35ipsc]

I have a $45 wireless camera that is powered off the center running light. It is Bluetooth and I can use it with my phone or a tablet. Very clear image, and no need to string wires from one end to the other.

[RKDowner]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Google "trailer frame wire clips" and you'll find the easiest thing to use. They snap on the edge of the frame rail and hold the wire. They are very inexpensive.

Thanks! This is perfect. Unfortunately my Keystone is in the shop getting the slideout fixed (fortunately I have the Good Sam Extended Service Plan) but when it's back I'll measure the frame thickness and order some. Still going to have to get on my back to do this

[RKDowner]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Few, if any, Keystone trailers were "prewired for a rear camera" in 2014. I selected a "wired rear camera" for my 2014 Cougar because back then, few "wireless camera systems" actually worked. I drilled a 1" hole in the rear wall, 6" under the center clearance light, ran the camera wire into the galley overhead cabinets, then to the pantry cabinet and then down to the floor, under the trailer, along the frame rail to the front passthrough, then up and to the pinbox and then to the truck frame and then to the monitor through a "drain hole/freeze plug" in the floor of the truck cab.

You can mount your camera in a similar location under the center clearance light, then into the galley overhead cabinet, toward the curb side and then down the back of the refrigerator rear space and under your trailer. From there, along the frame rails and along the A-frame to the tongue and on to your tow vehicle....

All that said, today's "wireless camera/monitor kits" are SIGNIFICANTLY improved. Have you considered simply mounting the camera under the center clearance light and connecting the power leads to the center light ???

That would significantly reduce your "wiring issues" as you'd only need to work with less than a 12 inch wire run..... Just turn on the clearance lights and your camera is "on and ready"....

From my experience I just don't trust a wireless unit. I'm going to go across the roof the 2-3 feet to the refrigerator vent, because that avoids drilling holes and the wire ends up in the same place anyway. I've got Everbond tape left over from the roof repair to hold it down, so no extra expense there. From my repair I know exactly where there's wood behind the skin, so I'm going to mount the camera slightly above the lights, between the right one and the center.

[RKDowner]

Originally Posted by GlasNav

Am I missing something? Why not simply remove the center rear clearance light and tap power from that? If that's doable drop down a couple of inches and mount your camera and snake a wire behind the exterior between the camera and light. Or are you looking to install a wired video device. The new wireless cameras work fine.

I'm going wired. I don't trust wireless, and I got a good deal on a wired unit. The cable carries power and video from the car so no tapping into trailer wiring.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by RKDowner

From my experience I just don't trust a wireless unit. I'm going to go across the roof the 2-3 feet to the refrigerator vent, because that avoids drilling holes and the wire ends up in the same place anyway. I've got Everbond tape left over from the roof repair to hold it down, so no extra expense there. From my repair I know exactly where there's wood behind the skin, so I'm going to mount the camera slightly above the lights, between the right one and the center.

It sounds like you're going to mount your camera on the roof above the clearance lights ????

If so, at night, the brightness of the clearance light will "wash out the camera image" and you'll only get a "gray glare" on the monitor. There's a reason why nearly every rear camera is mounted below the clearance lights: So it doesn't compete with the glare created in dark light situations....

[flyingjack]

2022 Montana HC; tapped clearance light to added cheapy Amazon $120 wireless camera. Does what it's supposed to do; just run with clearance lights on which is probably a good thing anyway.

[Rogersn]

I installed a camera to keep an eye on my e-bikes. I ran the cable along the gas line and ziptyed it. Pretty easy! No holes in the TT. I clampers a steel bracket to the ladder to mount the camera. I get some bounce which may be the bikes but could be the bracket. I’m thinking it’s the bikes which I have a plan for extra support.

[RK1978]

My wife is disabled and had to add a lift to pick her wheelchair up from ground level to door level. When I installed it I used 3/4" pvc conduit that was easy to install along the frame rail and used cable armor from end of conduit up to drive motor. Got a newer trailer and swapped the whole thing over, had to cut one end of the conduit and extend the other end to get everything to align. No worries about dragging or exposed wires. If I install a wired B/U camera I will use the same technique. PVC conduit is fairly flexible and all the pieces needed are easily available at Lowes/Menards or similar.

[German Shepherd Guy]

I am trying the wireless route. I think technology has advanced and ease of instillation and the ability to move it around effortlessly were deciding factors. The brand name is "XROOSE". Made in China, as every other one I looked at were, and the similarities of the many products leads me to suspect there is no difference in "brands". Initial set up is impressive. Camera has a small solar cell to help keep it charged. Screen is incredible in definitive. It is still winter here in the high country but will put it to use by mid April or early May. I will report back on functionality once I have it in everyday use. So far I am favorably moved by it.

[flyingjack]

German- I think I use a very similar brand but no solar. I tapped running lights in back for power. Unit works great; especially for the money spent. My 2022 Montana HC 295 was a supposed "covid" build; and, when we powered up camera no enough volts (needed 10+ and only had 8.4). Found out my 5er was built with incandescent marker light bulbs instead of LED so all those marker lights robbed too much juice. I changed out all the marker bulbs to LEDs and now have 10.7v or so and camera works great.