110 fridge

[NathanS]

I have a keystone challenger 33dbb and my fridge has given up. I will be living out of it for a while soon in 1 spot so was thinking of just putting a apartment size 110v unit in. I have seen a few videos on ol you tube was just wondering who has done it and what make models where used?
Thanks

[rhagfo]

Why not just replace the cooling unit with a 12 volt compressor unit?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Why not just replace the cooling unit with a 12 volt compressor unit?

Or a 120V unit:

https://jc-refrigeration.com/

Welcome to the forum

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Or a 120V unit:

https://jc-refrigeration.com/

Welcome to the forum

Well that is an option also, we went with the 12 volt so it would work during travel and power outages.
What I like best about our 12 volt compressor unit is stable refer and freezer temp. The refer sits at between 32 to 34 degrees and the freezer about 5 degrees.

[NathanS]

So you just replaced the cooling unit? I belive I'm low on coolant the tube bets hot but the fridge does not cool. Keeps tripping the over temp sensor and shutting everything off. Bypassed it to make shure it wasn't just a bad sensor no dice.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by NathanS

So you just replaced the cooling unit? I belive I'm low on coolant the tube bets hot but the fridge does not cool. Keeps tripping the over temp sensor and shutting everything off. Bypassed it to make shure it wasn't just a bad sensor no dice.

Yes, there are a number of companies that sell NEW Norcold and Dometic gas/electric absorption refrigerator cooling units that you can replace the cooling unit. Cost is around $800-900. Or you can buy a 12 VDC or 120VAC compressor cooling unit to replace the gas/absorption unit on your refrigerator. Cost is around $900. A new Dometic 2652 at Camping World is roughly $2300 plus installation.

Many people choose to replace their existing cooling unit and keep the same refrigerator due to the cost. It's not an extremely difficult job, but you will probably need help to get the refrigerator out in the open (inside your trailer) so you have room to work on it.

[NathanS]

but since im going to always have hardline power i can get a new fridge with more inside room for around 600.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Yes, there are a number of companies that sell NEW Norcold and Dometic gas/electric absorption refrigerator cooling units that you can replace the cooling unit. Cost is around $800-900. Or you can buy a 12 VDC or 120VAC compressor cooling unit to replace the gas/absorption unit on your refrigerator. Cost is around $900. A new Dometic 2652 at Camping World is roughly $2300 plus installation.

Many people choose to replace their existing cooling unit and keep the same refrigerator due to the cost. It's not an extremely difficult job, but you will probably need help to get the refrigerator out in the open (inside your trailer) so you have room to work on it.

Well for our Dometic 2862 the J.C. 12 volt unit was the same cost as the gas/electric, and as stated the BIG plus is VERY consistent temperatures.

[fjr vfr]

I replaced ours a couple years ago with a Magic Chef 10.2 cf fridge from Home Depot for about $420. It's also frost free, which is nice.
But, I also have full off grid solar and the fridge has a separate 700 watt inverter to power it. We gained a lot more fridge space compared to the 6 cf fridge that came with the trailer. We are happy with it.

[NathanS]

Yeah I have seen that one brought up alot but it seams to be on back order. Since I will be full time the extra room in the fridge is a big deal. Just don't want to try another brand and it not fit

[JRTJH]

If you choose to remove the current refrigerator and replace it with a small house type 120VAC type, you'll need to spend some time sealing up the two vents that are behind and on top of the refrigerator. If your current refrigerator is in a slide, you'll have two sidewall vents. If it's not in a slide, you will probably have a lower sidewall vent and a rooftop vent. On most refrigerators, you will have a propane line to remove and you should find a single 120VAC outlet behind the current refrigerator. I would recommend completely removing the flexible copper propane line and capping it at the "Tee" fitting under the trailer, which provides the best protection against a leak "inside and under your new refrigerator".

I would recommend that you do not remove the vents, as that will leave a "scar" on the outside of the trailer and a "hole" on the roof of the trailer. Rather, I'd recommend using 2" rigid foam, cut to size and then installed and sealed to close the vent spaces.

Some refrigerators are installed above the floor with a small "cabinet for the furnace" below it. So you'll need to do some measurements after you remove the existing refrigerator to determine how much space you actually have and then shop for a refrigerator that will fit that space.

[wiredgeorge]

I have a 22 year old Cougar and just replaced the cooling unit. The symptom was yellow powder from the refrigerant leaking. The powder is easy to spot. If you replace the cooling unit, it takes two people to lift the refrigerator out. Once out, check the 110V power and 12V power and be sure to shut off gas and purge the line by letting it burn on your stove. There are excellent videos on the swap on youtube.

I looked at just buying a 110V refrigerator and found that there are not a lot of them out there that are exact fit. Take measurements before buying. While the refrigerator is out, perhaps replace the electrical outlet as the one inside that supplies power is the cheapo wire into blade type and these are not overly reliable.

[fjr vfr]

Do not cover the top and side vent behind your 120v fridge should you decide to go that way
I added foam insulation behind the fridge so air would flow up the sides of the fridge where the condenser coils are located I then added 4 fans over the fridge and a switch inside so I can cycle them when it gets hot outside
I also secured the wires that run up through the compartment flat against the wall I covered them over with duct insulation and added it on both sides of the compartment so there would be an air gap on both sides of the fridge for air to move

[fjr vfr]

One more thing I sealed the fridge off from the inside of the trailer so all the venting is outside and through the cabinet

[fjr vfr]

I thought of one more thing I also have a chest fridge for more capacity or overflow it runs off dc or ac and is very efficient They are great to have

[NathanS]

Yeah mine has a bottom vent and o guess one going to the roof. I'll leave them open do air can flow. Yeah I think I'll buy a chest freezer to put outside and just put a lock on it. I like to grill and smoke do will need more room for meat

[NathanS]

I know the magic chief fits it's like 59 3/4 inches tall there is one at manards in stock that is 60. I bet I could make it fit even if I had to modify the cabinet just a touch

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by NathanS

I know the magic chief fits it's like 59 3/4 inches tall there is one at manards in stock that is 60. I bet I could make it fit even if I had to modify the cabinet just a touch

With some level of carpenter skills, modifying the cabinet shouldn't be a difficult problem...

As for "leaving the vents behind the refrigerator open, consider that the walls of the refrigerator enclosure are not insulated "AT ALL" so you're going to have condensation on those "cold walls" during the winter and heat buildup from those "hot walls" during the summer. Also, leaving them open means you'll need to completely seal the area around the refrigerator, including below it, where the condensor is located, otherwise, you'll have outside air entering through those spaces as well as mosquitoes, flies and likely ants/bees as well.

So, consider just how you're going to seal the inside from the outside and how you're going to insulate those 1/8" luan paneled walls to keep the inside cabin comfortable in weather extremes.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

With some level of carpenter skills, modifying the cabinet shouldn't be a difficult problem...

As for "leaving the vents behind the refrigerator open, consider that the walls of the refrigerator enclosure are not insulated "AT ALL" so you're going to have condensation on those "cold walls" during the winter and heat buildup from those "hot walls" during the summer. Also, leaving them open means you'll need to completely seal the area around the refrigerator, including below it, where the condensor is located, otherwise, you'll have outside air entering through those spaces as well as mosquitoes, flies and likely ants/bees as well.

So, consider just how you're going to seal the inside from the outside and how you're going to insulate those 1/8" luan paneled walls to keep the inside cabin comfortable in weather extremes.

There were huge mud dauber clumps in my refrigerator box; got in through the vent I guess. Cleaning was disgusting and I had to use an N95 mask as I got kinda sick feeling from the nasty dust.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

There were huge mud dauber clumps in my refrigerator box; got in through the vent I guess. Cleaning was disgusting and I had to use an N95 mask as I got kinda sick feeling from the nasty dust.

Can you imagine the mess if all that would have been in the coils at the bottom of your refrigerator? Or, in the spring after sitting all winter, if those mud daubers had "invaded the trailer" and set up their mud nests somewhere else in the trailer ??? YECHT !!!