WDH too heavy ?

[RCE42342]

I'm towing my Keystone Mini with 2021 Ranger. The Minis' empty weight is 3300#. Max weight is 4400#. The Ranger can tow 7500# ,with a payload capacity of 1650#. I bought the camper used and it came with a 10000# WDH.Is this hitch too heavy-duty to use . I've seen videos where this can cause frame damage. The 2021 Ford towing guide says no WDH is needed. Any ideas ?

[JRTJH]

I believe you've got several factors to consider that go beyond what Ford has in their towing guide....

1. The trailer, as you say, has a GVWR of 4400 pounds. That means somewhere around 440-660 pounds (10-15% of total trailer weight)

2. The W/D hitch you got in the package is likely "overkill" for your needs.

3. Ford says "no W/D needed for up to 750 pounds tongue weight/7500 pounds total trailer weight"...

4. Ford's trailer guide recommendations ARE NOT CALCULATED USING TRAVEL TRAILERS. They are calculated using SAE test procedures which are based on a flatbed trailer with concrete ballast which is adjustable to obtain specific trailer weight and specific tongue weight. Then testing includes accelleration, decellaration, braking (with/without trailer brake assist) and some "g force curves, maneuvering testing"... The SAE tests do not include any "large sidewall trailer towing"...

5. RV trailer towing is a "different situation" from the SAE process that establishes the maximum trailer weights for the vehicle.

6. While you "may not need W/D assist" based on "max trailer weight per SAE tests" those tests do not consider factors such as sway induced by sidewinds on a travel trailer, controlling "bow wave forces" that you will encounter when passing or being passed by semi trucks, large busses/motorhomes and other similar vehicles. Nor does the SAE testing consider how those forces affect a single axle trailer that weighs as much as the tow vehicle you're driving.

7. When towing a 4400 pound SINGLE AXLE large sidewall trailer with a 4600 pound tow vehicle, you will experience sway that you need to counter to maintain control of your rig. In some conditions, that sway can adversely affect safety for you and others who share the road.

IMO, Ford may be correct in stating that no W/D hitch is required, but you will need to address sway control (above and beyond the sway control assist provided by your tow vehicle braking system).

Also, IMO, your rig will tow better and provide a significantly better "driver experience" if you do have a quality W/D hitch with sway control. I'd look at the Equalizer 4 point sway control W/D hitch system. I would also recommend that you consider the 600/6000 pound pound hitch system.

I do believe that without such a hitch, the first time you get your rig up to about 65 or 70 MPH and pull into the left lane to pass a 18 wheeler going 55 or 60 MPH, you'll stop at the next rest area and after "relieving yourself and changing underwear" you'll be on the internet, searching for this thread to see what hitch did he say I needed.....

But, to go back to the hitch you got with the purchase, I'd say that hitch is "overkill and much more than you need". If it's a "sway control hitch" you may be able to buy more flexible bars for that hitch head. If it's one of the brands that does not offer "multiple choices in W/D bars" then you might want to consider selling it and buying a lighter 600/6000 pound hitch.

But, I would not recommend towing a "single axle, large sidewall RV type trailer" that weighs as much as the tow vehicle without adequate W/D and sway control.

ADDED: It appears that you asked this same question on 2/27/24 in a thread located at: https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=56974 Has anything changed from that time until now ??? Additionally, the hitch was identified in that thread as a "Haul Master 10K" which is a "round bar, chain link hitch with no sway control". Is this the hitch you are still asking about? In the past month, have you towed the trailer using that hitch and without using that hitch as a comparison?

[sourdough]

What kind of hitch are you talking about? Does it use chains or bars. The chains can be adjusted by the links, those with bars have a set range of tension they provide. The shank of a hitch is rated as well; are you talking about a 10k lb. rated shank? If so that's OK - it's the bar that slides into the receiver with the hitch ball attached to it.

The Ford manual, as has been mentioned, doesn't speak to towing an RV and is flat wrong for that application. Consider: the Ranger is not a full size truck but rather mid size....a weak link trying to pull a travel trailer. Your trailer has a single axle - the possibility of things going south if a tire fails is very high - especially with a small truck. In that case, with a trailer that weighs as much as the truck that has developed momentum due to some anomaly (say a blowout), the trailer will control the truck. In that event the truck needs EVERY option it can come up with to keep you, your family, your vehicles and all those other people on the highway out of harms way. All that to say that, yes, you not only need a WDH with sway but IMO it's mandatory.

If the WDH you have has bars you need to find out what those are rated for. Equalizer uses a 10k rated shank for all their smaller hitches (up to 1000lb. bars IIRC - could be 800) then goes to a 14k shank. Others may do the same. Post back with exactly what kind of hitch you have and we can help.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by sourdough

What kind of hitch are you talking about? Does it use chains or bars. The chains can be adjusted by the links, those with bars have a set range of tension they provide. The shank of a hitch is rated as well; are you talking about a 10k lb. rated shank? If so that's OK - it's the bar that slides into the receiver with the hitch ball attached to it.

The Ford manual, as has been mentioned, doesn't speak to towing an RV and is flat wrong for that application. Consider: the Ranger is not a full size truck but rather mid size....a weak link trying to pull a travel trailer. Your trailer has a single axle - the possibility of things going south if a tire fails is very high - especially with a small truck. In that case, with a trailer that weighs as much as the truck that has developed momentum due to some anomaly (say a blowout), the trailer will control the truck. In that event the truck needs EVERY option it can come up with to keep you, your family, your vehicles and all those other people on the highway out of harms way. All that to say that, yes, you not only need a WDH with sway but IMO it's mandatory.

If the WDH you have has bars you need to find out what those are rated for. Equalizer uses a 10k rated shank for all their smaller hitches (up to 1000lb. bars IIRC - could be 800) then goes to a 14k shank. Others may do the same. Post back with exactly what kind of hitch you have and we can help.

Danny, In a post in a previous thread about the same topic, he stated that he has a Haul Master 10K hitch. That's a Harbor Freight, "entry level W/D hitch" with adjusting chains on round bars with no sway control. There is an optional accessory at Harbor Freight, a "slide bar friction sway device"...

Here's the hitch at HF: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...tem-67649.html

[RCE42342]

Yes it is a Harbor Freight #67649 W/ chains . Thanks for the input and advice. Will this hitch be ok if I get the slide bar friction sway device ?

[GlasNav]

The extra mini ball and slide friction clamp device probably does help. However, WDH with chain connections aren't recommended for backing up, and the clamp friction pad will wear out.

A WDH with trunnion bars that ride on flat plate brackets attached to the A frame of the trailer provide very good sway control, and are safe when backing.

I personally recommend the Husky Centerline TS product. But there are similar products on the market that can provide similar results.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by RCE42342

Yes it is a Harbor Freight #67649 W/ chains . Thanks for the input and advice. Will this hitch be ok if I get the slide bar friction sway device ?

Just my opinion but NO, that wdh is not up to par. It's an entry level, low performance product, to accomplish a job that requires a much better product. The weight distribution "might" work to an acceptable level but the slide bar friction sway devices may as well not be there - btdt. Considering that you have a rig combination that is marginal at best for weight, control of the rig, preventing sway etc. Not trying to be harsh but just realistic.

My first full sized trailer was provided with a chain operated weight distribution and the little sliding friction bars - 2. The trailer was a bit bigger than yours but that really doesn't matter. The friction bars are worthless IMO and when you need the best, as I think you do with that combo, they just won't (can't) do the job you need. But, those little adjustable chain links for weight distribution? Pulled the back end of my truck up so light that the tires just skipped across an intersection while messing with it so that part worked.

[RCE42342]

It seems I need sway control more than the WDH. What about getting the sway control and just remove the spring bars ,which could damage the frame, That would give sway control and no risk of damaging the frame.

[sourdough]

You need it all. You're not going to damage the frame of anything unless you don't follow the instructions.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by RCE42342

It seems I need sway control more than the WDH. What about getting the sway control and just remove the spring bars ,which could damage the frame, That would give sway control and no risk of damaging the frame.

JMHO, but I wouldn’t tow without both WD and sway. We sold lots of smaller trailers towed by lighter vehicles and in over 90% of the cases, they returned after a few miles and had us install.

There are lots of choices, and the trunion style will give you both WD and sway. EQ4 is the best, but if your budget doesn’t allow it, look at the E2 or the Curt.