Fifth wheel hitch question

[rperksp]

We have a 2008 Outback 30-footer and tow with a 2500 RAM short bed. We use an Anderson Ultimate hitch, and have had no issues to date. There is no set back built into the fifth wheel. The Anderson is exceptionally easy to remove and reinstall, allowing for full use of bed of pick up. But there is always a worry about the nose of the fifth wheel hitting the back of the cab. Any recommendations for an automatic slider that might not be so heavy to be problematic with removing and reinstalling? I am not seeing anything less than 200 Lbs.

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum

Unfortunately every automatic sliding hitch will be heavy, even the manual sliders can be a bear to get in/out. Do you have the “cup” forward or back of the kingpin? Forward does allow a little more clearance.

[bsmith0404]

Which Andersen do you have, the one for rails or center ball?

[GHen]

My son has a 2017 Ram 2500 with slider but with a 2017 5th wheel. He has the B&W slider and has never needed to use it, But the older the 5th wheels may have less curve to the nose, your situation may be different.
The B&W slider is very heavy, he has a simple block and tackle in his garage, just lifts it out and puts it on a dolly and rolls into the corner of the garage.
I have the fixed B&W which is still heavy and put mine on a dolly I made that is the same height as my tailgate, set it on that and roll it in a corner. Very little lifting.

[JRTJH]

Unfortunately, the 2008 Outback fifth wheels all used the "older square corner front style" and there's no cutbacks to help with cab clearance.

I don't know of any sliding hitch that weighs less than about 200 pounds and many are significantly more than that. One option "could" include a conventional non-sliding hitch and a SideWinder pinbox extension, but you'd have to measure carefully to assure the back of the pinbox doesn't hit your tailgate or the bed sides in turns. That would get you down to around 100-125 pounds for the hitch plus the weight of the SideWinder extension.

The "CON" (and for me it's a big one) is the cost. Not only do you have the $500 for the non-sliding hitch, you've also got the cost of the SideWinder pinbox which is another $1200 or so plus installation charges... Not a cheap, try it and see kind of option.....

[jsb5717]

I know it's not ideal or completely fool-proof but it is possible to just learn to pay attention and set up your backing to avoid having to turn to sharply. I did it that way with short bed trucks and older, square-nosed 5ers for many years without ever contacting the back of my truck. I just trained myself to keep an eye on it and avoid the need for turning angles that would cause a problem.

I used an Andersen Hitch for several years and, like you, really enjoy it's weight and simplicity. It's really up to you and your confidence in your own ability and how much weight you want to manage as a tradeoff.

[drew999999]

I also have a manual B&W slider, but have a newer 5er with a rounded nose and have only needed to use the sliding function twice. They are heavy (I think its about 300lbs) and ended up installing an electric hoist in my garage to make it extremely easy to install/remove when I need to haul stuff in the bed. I believe I spent about $120 on the hoist and maybe another $50 in unistrut/hardware. I don't think there are any lightweight sliding hitches that I've come across.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

I know it's not ideal or completely fool-proof but it is possible to just learn to pay attention and set up your backing to avoid having to turn to sharply. I did it that way with short bed trucks and older, square-nosed 5ers for many years without ever contacting the back of my truck. I just trained myself to keep an eye on it and avoid the need for turning angles that would cause a problem.

I used an Andersen Hitch for several years and, like you, really enjoy it's weight and simplicity. It's really up to you and your confidence in your own ability and how much weight you want to manage as a tradeoff.

Same here. I won’t own a slider because of the weight and the space they take up for storing.

[Canonman]

Here's a vid from Anderson re installation. Note the measurements taken to determine if the clearance is adequate. You can install the king pin block either forward or rearward to help with additional clearance if needed.
https://help.andersenhitches.com/ins...eel-connection

[rperksp]

Thank you for the response. We have it situated forward of the kingpin. It provides the maximum turning ratio.

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Welcome to the forum

Unfortunately every automatic sliding hitch will be heavy, even the manual sliders can be a bear to get in/out. Do you have the “cup” forward or back of the kingpin? Forward does allow a little more clearance.

[rperksp]

Center ball

[rperksp]

Thanks....believe this is the best option. I think we can get about a 75 degree turning ratio, which should generally work, especially when traveling down the road. As you noted, we just need to practice and be extra careful when backing up. Thanks again.

[coop341]

I have 2017 25RES with a rounded nose. I have the kingpin adapter turned so the hitch ball is behind the original kingpin. Had to do this to get clearance for the pin box on the bed side rails. Even with this setup, I’m getting about 85 degrees of turning angle and still have a couple inches of clearance between trailer nose and the corner of my cab.

[Hballer21]

I went through the same issue with mine. Short bed F-250. The slider was impossible to lift in and out every time we wanted to use it. Bought a simple Curtis on a frame (ball mount) and have been very happy. Instead of having the SO watch what I was backing into, she now watches how close the 5er gets to the truck cab. I figured an even trade off. We are not getting stronger.

[Timberwolffe]

My $.02 worth,
I have a 2016 Raptor toy hauler and a 2016 Ram 3500 with the 5th wheel prep package. I have a B&W manual slider that pins into the base plate attached to the truck. I found the need to remove the 200+ lb hitch when we were out so I could load my 4 wheeler in the bed of the truck.
When I park and want the hitch out instead of unlatching the hitch I simply unpin the hitch from the base plate, raise the front of the trailer and drive out. This leaves the hitch hanging from the kingpin. Now I just remove the base plate, 25 lbs, and replace my pucks.
Now I have had people question hanging the hitch off the kingpin for weight and safety. If the kingpin handles all the chucking it can handle 200 lbs. As for safety I lock the latch safety so some kid can't release it and break a leg.
I always put out my slide when backing. Screwed up the cab of a new 14 Ram 3500 and cap of my 14 Raptor but didn't blow out the back glass thankfully.
Hope this helps.

[NH_Bulldog]

Quick question; what about keeping your current hitch and changing the pin box to a Lippert TurningPoint which shifts the pivot point further to the rear?

We are just starting a search for our next camper and I am trying to learn as much as I can about hitches/systems.

[bsmith0404]

Can’t use a turn point with and Andersen. That creates two pivot points.

[NH_Bulldog]

Thanks, good to know! I would have seen that if I had looked at the Anderson hitch first LOL!