Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Keystone Questions
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-25-2011, 05:33 AM   #1
ohiohideout
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 18
Steps to winterize your Travel Trailer

For all you newbs out there like me, I spent the better part of a week researching how to winterize my Hideout 38BHDS.

There are 2 ways to winterize: 1) Compressed Air or 2) RV Antifreeze

I decided to use to the compressed air option so here was my check list

Tools you will need:
- Go to Home Depot and procure 3 items (1 air compressor fitting, 3/4" NPT Male fitting and the fitting to mate the two together)
- Phillips ScrewDriver/Drill
- 1 -1/16" socket (or Crescent and Monkey Wrench)
- Portable air compressor and extension cord

How to do it:
- Turn off the water supply to your camper
- Disconnect the drinking water hose from your camper and remove the small water screen (store it or discard the screen and replace next spring)
- Remove the water pressure regulator and store
- Set your compressor to about 30 psi
- Connect fitting to your drinking water hose and blow out the hose until only air comes out
- If you have one, don't forget to blow out the 2nd garden hose connected to the other side of your Y-connector
- Take some ziploc bags and cover the ends of the hoses, then rubberband them closed
- Using the 1 1/16" socket carefully remove the drain plug from your hot water tank (accessed from a panel on the exterior of your trailer)
- To fully drain the tank, while the water is draining flip the pressure relief
- Locate and open all Low Drainage points (note: I noticed that once I flipped the pressure relief more water came from the low point drains)
- Remove wooden cover housing Hot Water Tank and flip the valve to bypass
- With the compressor still set around 30 psi connect the fitting to your city water connection
- Go inside the trailer and blow out kitchen sink lines. Turn the cold water on until only air comes out then turn on the hot water until air comes out
- Next, do the same process for the bathroom sink
- Next, do the same process for the shower (do this even if you never used the shower! I found that water was still in these lines even though we never used the shower)
- Next, do the same process for the Toilet
- Next, do the same process for the outdoor shower
- Turn on the Water Pump switch for about 30 seconds and open the kitchen sink cold and hot water lines
- Now you need to dump some RV antifreeze down each of these drains to push the water out of the traps and ensure that the traps fill with the antifreeze.
- RV Antifreeze in Kitchen sink (both sides)
- RV Antifreeze in bathroom sink
- RV Antifreeze in shower drain (even if never used)
- RV Antifreeze in Toilet (pours some into the toilet and flush so it goes into the Black tank then pour some with the flap closed to maintain a nice seal on the toilet)
- Pump up tires to max recommended pressure (and cover if you have them, use a breathable cover not a tarp)
- Thaw and empty your Fridge of all contents. Thoroughly clean it and leave the doors propped open
- Remove all food from your cupboard. Including non-perishable items. Can foods may freeze and explode
- Leave cupboards propped open
- Lubricate slideout seals with silicone spray
- Retract Slideouts to bring them in
- Disconnect the electrical power cord from the power supply. Cover the end with a ziploc bag and rubberband it closed
- Remove the battery and store in a warmer place like your basement
- Cover A/C unit with a breathable cover (not a tarp) or use an RV cover
- Thoroughly clean your camper to ensure no rodents want to get in for food crumbs or anything else
- Empty and flush all holding tanks

That should be it! $100 saved by doing this yourself!

NOTE: Cycling the slideouts is a debateable topic. One theory is that the more you slide them in and out the more of a chance you have to damage your sealings. The other theory is that if you leave the slideouts out then snow could build up adding extra weight possibly damaging the retraction devices. Also, like snow build up on your roof, I guess the water from melting snow could penetrate the slideout seals. FWIW, I decided to retract my slideouts.

Hope this helps!

Good luck!
ohiohideout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 06:57 AM   #2
mikell
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 806
After you blow everything out

Do it again

Doesn't hurt or cost anything and if you get a bunch of water keep doing it.

I have a whole campground to do.

mike

If you can leave the trailer plugged in do it. Just makes it easier to take care of things. Keeps battery charged
mikell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 07:32 AM   #3
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,837
Ohiohideout,

Good checklist, but one thing you didn't mention (I'm sure you did it) is to empty and flush all holding tanks and the fresh water tank.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 08:06 AM   #4
ohiohideout
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 18
@JRTJH

Good point. I pay for emptying of the tanks where I am so I did not include these.

It is good for those who do not have a service to include these on the checklist.

@mikell
You are absolutely right. As a newbie I think I actually did the process 4 times but I was guessing that it was overkill
ohiohideout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 09:07 AM   #5
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,837
Ohiohideout, overkill is never an issue when next spring your camper made it through the winter without damage. I've often gone back a couple weeks after winterizing and just recheck things, and pour a little more antifreeze in the drain, etc. It's never "too much" to redo things when the outcome means "sweet success"
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 12:06 PM   #6
justduit2
Junior Member
 
justduit2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 9
Thanks for the post O-H. Good info I'm getting ready to winterize for the 1st time myself, and like you have been reading everything I can find on the subject. I think I'm going the blowout and then antifreeze route, saw someone mention damp empty tubes being a bacterial breeding ground, I know I've seen mold develop readily enough in empty tubing before, so I'm thinking never too safe . I saw a fitting that had a compressor quick connect on one side and hose fitting on the other on amazon, got ready to order it today, and it said 2 to 5 months for delivery . Think I'll be going to HD and find the pieces you recommend.

Also, didn't see the black tank flush mentioned, I've seen a few times to not to forget to blow it out if you've got one.

Mark
__________________

2011 Laredo 275SBH
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD QC LB
justduit2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 12:53 PM   #7
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,837
Quote:
Originally Posted by justduit2 View Post
Thanks for the post O-H. Good info I'm getting ready to winterize for the 1st time myself, and like you have been reading everything I can find on the subject. I think I'm going the blowout and then antifreeze route, saw someone mention damp empty tubes being a bacterial breeding ground, I know I've seen mold develop readily enough in empty tubing before, so I'm thinking never too safe . I saw a fitting that had a compressor quick connect on one side and hose fitting on the other on amazon, got ready to order it today, and it said 2 to 5 months for delivery . Think I'll be going to HD and find the pieces you recommend.

Also, didn't see the black tank flush mentioned, I've seen a few times to not to forget to blow it out if you've got one.

Mark
WalMart has a hose blowout connection in their RV department for about $2.50. It's hanging with the regulators and brass hosee elbow connectors. I took that fitting, added a piece of black rubber windshield washer hose and plugged it into the air brush fitting I use to "sweep" the garage floor. Just open the low point drains, screw the fitting in the fresh water fitting on the trailer, push the compressor fitting into the rubber hose, turn it on and start opening and closing faucets... Be careful to adjust your compressor regulator to less than 40 PIS or so before you start.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 01:37 PM   #8
ohiohideout
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
WalMart has a hose blowout connection in their RV department for about $2.50. It's hanging with the regulators and brass hosee elbow connectors. I took that fitting, added a piece of black rubber windshield washer hose and plugged it into the air brush fitting I use to "sweep" the garage floor. Just open the low point drains, screw the fitting in the fresh water fitting on the trailer, push the compressor fitting into the rubber hose, turn it on and start opening and closing faucets... Be careful to adjust your compressor regulator to less than 40 PIS or so before you start.

Yeah, I also saw that fitting but if it is the one I am thinking of it was just a 3/4" MNPT down to a piece of tubing 1/4". I wanted to just plug my fitting in the quick disconnect on my air compressor so I went with these components from Home Depot:

1 - standard Air Compressor quick disconnect 1/4" MNPT
1 - 1/2" MIP x 1/4" FIP (Watts Part # A-827)
1 - 3/4" MH x 1/2" FIP (Watts Part # A-668)

Connect them all with a little teflon tape and for about $6 you've got yourself a long lasting fitting that connects straight to your quick disconnect.

My camper is stationary so I only use the city water connection and never put water in the fresh water tank. FWIW, the fitting combination that I am referring will not work on my fresh water tank. I am not sure what fitting type the fresh water tank is but I am pretty sure it is not 3/4" NPT.
ohiohideout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2011, 02:02 PM   #9
SteveC7010
Senior Member
 
SteveC7010's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiohideout View Post
My camper is stationary so I only use the city water connection and never put water in the fresh water tank. FWIW, the fitting combination that I am referring will not work on my fresh water tank. I am not sure what fitting type the fresh water tank is but I am pretty sure it is not 3/4" NPT.
The fresh water tanks on RV's are vented so trying to blow them out with air won't work too well. If you can blow out the line from the pump back to the fresh water tank, and then leave the drain on that tank open until it doesn't drip, that will be adequate winterizing.

Since you don't use the FW tank at all, you might consider sanitizing it once or twice a year to prevent mold, algae, etc.
__________________

'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
SteveC7010 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2011, 01:11 PM   #10
Outbackmel
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dacula, GA
Posts: 620
Winterizing add on info

We are located in N Georgia mountains where we leave the RV. I just completed winterizing this morning after enjoying a week of beautiful fall colors.

This past winter, we only had one (too many ) issue. Fortunately, I found it as I was prepping the RV for an early spring trip to Florida. It is a COMMON plastic failure and I just wanted to share with those using compressed air. I used that method for 3 seasons with only the one issue. This year, I decided to go with the fresh water pump; 3 way valve; and put anti freeze in all lines. The method also includes a line blowout to ensure all water is vetted. Then, anti freeze.

I am not going to bore everyone with details. It's an easy process but everything needs to be thought of as you go through the process.

THE PART I WISH TO CAUTION ABOUT: The water line that connects to the rear of the toilet is VERY LIKELY to hold a small amount of water which WILL expand and crack the connecting cap to the toilet. When you turn the water back on in the spring; watch out.....you know the rest of the story!!
Outbackmel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2011, 01:59 PM   #11
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,837
In the "old days" Thetford toilets had a spring valve in the back. as you stepped on the pedal, the valve rotated letting water flow to the toilet. It was at the floor, in the very back, only way to get to it was remove the toilet which meant a 1/2 inch socket through a little hole on top the toilet and a wrench to get to the bolt under the pedal. Those things froze nearly every winter... The, "big" improvement, Thetford put the valve in a brass reinforcing shell. Now, it froze but instead of cracking so the water flowed out of the toilet, it froze, didn't displace and now it sprayed out of the toilet. Those were the days before I learned about RV antifreeze (and probably before I could afford it just before the holidays...

At any rate, I can definitely feel your frustration with a frozen toilet valve...
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2011, 04:34 AM   #12
mysdak
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 4
I like the assured safety of anti-freeze in my water system. If the taps and toilet run pink, I'm safe. It only takes a minute to take the hose off in front of the pump, bypass the hot water tank, put the hose in a bottle of anti-freeze and pump it through the system until every tap sprays pink. Safety in my mind. Have never had a freezing issue.


On a funny note. Sold an old trailer to a young neighbour of mine. Talked to him a few weeks after his first camp out as he loaded water into his truck. I asked him why he wasn't using the holding tank in the trailer. He said that the system was screwed up and that he tore out the tank. I inquired as to what was wrong with the system and he replied that his girlfriend made coolaid from the water that he put in the tank and that it was the worst tasting coolaid that he had ever had. Good thing you can drink RV anti-freeze as they didn't flush the system before using it. I had to laugh.
mysdak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2011, 06:16 PM   #13
Momedic
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 13
Ok rookie mistake. I bypassed the water heater and made a new hose to connect directly the pump. Everything went great. Put the hose in the pink stuff and it drained the jug in seconds. Looked over to the bypass no pink stuff in the line. Ok, where did it go! Sent my boy out to see if anything ran out of the water heater. He returned, "nothing out the side of the camper, but it is leaking out the bottom". Oops, forgot to recap the drains. recapped the drains and everything else worked as planned. Only lost about a gallon of the pink stuff. Over all super easy.
__________________
2008 Ford E350
2015 Passport 3320
2010 Passport 290BH
Momedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2011, 07:05 PM   #14
chuck&gail
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado Mountains
Posts: 422
My list is a bit longer. Note items 1-27 are dewinterize listings.

28. Drain fresh water tank – do while on concrete pad.
29. Drain hot water heater (1 1/16”), & flush it out (open all faucets first to avoid shower).
30. Bypass hot water heater (cw to handle vertical).
31. Add 2 gallons of antifreeze in fresh water tank.
32. Turn on demand pump.
33. Run each faucet (including shower) until red
34. Flush Toilet until red
35. Run outside sink outlet until red
36. Turn off demand pump.
37. Un-bypass hot water heater (ccw to handle horizontal)
38. Run pump just a little to get antifreeze into water heater tank
39. Shut off the pump, turn on a faucet, and remove the screen and washer from your city water inlet. Push the anti-backflow valve in the city water inlet with a finger or screwdriver to allow the water to be purged out and antifreeze to flow. Be careful that it doesn't spray all over you!
40. Open two low point drains until runs pink.
41. Open fresh water tank drain until runs pink.
42. Drain gray water into bucket & flush down house toilet
43. Drain black water into bucket & flush down house toilet
44. Put antifreeze down bathroom shower and sink drain
45. Put antifreeze down either kitchen sink drain
46. Put antifreeze down toilet
47. Put olive oil in toilet, and 1 cup in each waste tank (cheap valve lube).
48. Blow out (30 psi max) the black tank flush system and add antifreeze
49. Chock wheels and lower stabilizers
50. Move Pressure Pro sensors to Mercedes.
51. Check tire pressures, put to the 65 psi maximum
52. Cover tires
53. Check battery water
54. Turn off both Propane tanks
55. Clean fridge drain hose tiny screen end wedged into outside fridge panel vent.
56. Install flea collars in outside openings to deter bugs
57. Install Damp Rid
58. Final Check
a. Demand Pump off
b. Thermostat set to off
c. Propane alarm battery removed
d. Smoke detector battery removed
e. Refrigerator turned OFF and both doors open
f. All canned (and un-canned) food removed, & trash empty
g. All windows & roof vent closed
h. Both doors locked
i. Both outside storage doors locked
j. Battery cutoff switch is off
k. Awning is locked
__________________
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Australian Shepherd
2010 Ford Expedition TV
2010 Outback 230RS Toybox, 5390# UVW, 6800# Loaded
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
chuck&gail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 05:41 AM   #15
MooseMan
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 25
Hi - I'm new to this and assembling my winterization list.

For those using compressed air - are you disconnecting the main water pump fittings and letting them drain? If you blow in air from the outside aren't you bypassing the water pump system altogether?
__________________
'12 Passport 2650BH
'97 Ford Expedition
MooseMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 07:27 AM   #16
SteveC7010
Senior Member
 
SteveC7010's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by MooseMan View Post
Hi - I'm new to this and assembling my winterization list.

For those using compressed air - are you disconnecting the main water pump fittings and letting them drain? If you blow in air from the outside aren't you bypassing the water pump system altogether?
Most of us don't disconnect at the trailer side of the pump because after blowing out the system, we then use the water pump to push RV antifreeze into the entire system. Whatever little bit of residual water in the pump and a foot or two of line from the pump just gets replaced with antifreeze.

Read the winterization instructions carefully. They tell you to turn the pump on and then run each faucet one at a time until it runs solid pink.

The idea with compressed air is to open one faucet at a time while the system is pressurized to blow out the water. Doing this means you then need a lot less antifreeze (money saved) to fully winterize.

Let me just point out that the winterization techniques listed here and elsewhere on the net are tried and true ways of doing this. It is the general experience of seasoned RV owners that deviating from these methods is usually a recipe for problems.
__________________

'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
SteveC7010 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 03:45 PM   #17
gepaine
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Carnation, WA
Posts: 190
Help me out, Steve.

How does blowing out the water lines mean you need a lot less anti-freeze?
__________________

2011 Keystone Cougar 24RKS
2007 Cadillac Escalade
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
Past Trailer:
Forest River R-POD RP-175
Past Tow Vehicle:
2008 Toyota Sienna
gepaine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 03:49 PM   #18
SteveC7010
Senior Member
 
SteveC7010's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by gepaine View Post
Help me out, Steve.

How does blowing out the water lines mean you need a lot less anti-freeze?
If you just start pumping in antifreeze to the system when it is still full of water, you'll loose a gallon or more to dilution. If 95% or more of the water has already been purged by blowing out the lines, there's virtually no dilution.
__________________

'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
SteveC7010 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 09:15 PM   #19
golfpro
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hermiston or
Posts: 128
winterizing

I used to just blow out my lines until one spring day I un winterized and charged the water lines to find a busted water line. I was sure I had blown them out enough. Well, now I blow them out then use a valve located between the tank and the pump to suck anti freeze through the lines. Never had another busted pipe and that has been about 30 some years now.
golfpro is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.