Electrical Issues - Two Questions (to start)

[SargeW]

And according to WFCO, if your converter does not have the current software update, the sensing circuit may not switch at all. It's explained in the previous post I linked to above.

[Trailgrunt]

Had a similar situation on our 2021 25RDS. Mostly camped using shore power. Since we had solar, and new batteries, it wasn’t a problem until year 2. Then the batteries started to die. After tons of testing found out converter was defective and not charging batteries on shore power. Finally pulled converter and tested output - nothing. Got a new converter, updated to Lithium, and no problems. Replaced converter myself which says a lot. Good luck. These issues are frustrating.

[firestation12]

In the walk through video, the Victron solar charger installed was rated at 15 amps. As stated by others, the fridge will slowly draw down the battery when off grid, resulting in a low voltage warning. Maybe you have the same charger capacity.

[4Papa]

I'm circling the converter/charger as the culprit. I spoke with WFCO and they told me to test the converter with a voltage meter at the converter "lugs". I should get between 13.0 and 13.6 volts. I tested what I think are the lugs and get 0 volts. Question is if what I'm testing are the lugs. In my 25RDS, Keystone installed the converter (a separate box from the distribution panel with the 120V breakers and 12V fuses) behind the panel, behind a mess of wires and behind the heater duct hoses. I can barely reach my hand inside with the meter leads to get near the lugs. I'll attempt to attach a stock photo of the converter with arrows indicating what I suspect are the lugs (clearly I'm no electrician). Unable to attach photo. Do the two vertical openings at the top of the red and black connectors each contain a screw used to secure the cabling and if I'm touching these screws with the voltage meter leads, shouldn't that give me the voltage I'm looking for? If so, it's zero. My Victron Smart Solar and Smart Sense App tells me the battery voltage is 13.7.

If the converter is bad, it starting going bad last summer, 1-1/2 years into its 2-year warranty. The camper was in to the dealer/service department while under warranty and they apparently had no clue about the WFCO firmware issues. I'm calling WFCO tomorrow (assuming the converter is bad) and will begin the battle with them about replacing it under warranty. If they don't, I'll look to replace it with a better unit.

[GaryDean]

The Victron unit needs to be changed for lithium batteries
Use the app to do this
The shunt is there look by the disconnect switch
It will also show up in the Victron app

[Trailgrunt]

Sounds like we have had the same issue. My wife reminded me we actually have a 2022 25RDS on order for 9 months finally delivered Oct 2021 in MA. Might be similar assembly.
I was also told to test the output but could not do so as I was not hooked up to shore power. So carefully I got in there and removed the controller. (Disconnect batteries and all power). Took 3 hours and a real PIA but got it out. Then I plugged it in at the house and could clearly see the output (I think it’s in the back as installed but can’t quite remember). Anyway, nothing coming out of the unit. I bought a new one on Amazon of all things with updated software. 2 hours to install. It’s not back to the exact spot but secured well to the floor. Seems to work fine but always hard to tell with solar running all the time. Like an idiot I tested it with a blanket over the panel but should have just popped the solar breaker.
I wouldn’t wish this problem on anyone but I got it done and I’m challenged to change out a light switch.
Good luck.

[4Papa]

Looks like I'm in for the same adventure. How did you do the replacement? Did you go in through the panel opening? Did you disconnect/remove any wiring, ducting? Removing the stove/cooktop would provide easier access but that sounds like its own nightmare.

[GlasNav]

Removing the stove isn't the option, I know this because I recently replaced the Furrion junk with a GE Profile range, and there is a panel below the stove.

Access is thru the hole after removing the distribution panel.

I didn't touch the furnace ducting, and took care as not to damage the ducting with that rats nest bundle of wires.

After a couple of attempts on how to work with the limited access, I found that laying my chest across something about 15" high allowed me to use my arms and hands to work freely and not fighting to support my body.

Be sure to disconnect your Giggy Box switch before starting this repair.

There were 4 screws holding our converter to the floor.
I removed the screws and brought the coveter close to the hole and then swapped wires. I don't recall if the unit was hard wired to AC or if it was plugged into a socket. If it isn't a socket, remember to lock out tag out that breaker, or completely disconnect the shore power cable.

[Trailgrunt]

I was able to pull out the electrical panel. 4 screws behind the cover. The cover moves up and down a bit. Pretty easy.
The panel had about 2’ of wiring so could kind of get it out of the way. I reached in and was able to get to the four screws that secured the unit to the floor so then had some play to work with. The installer originally threaded about 2’ of the ground wire through the converters’ ground connection which was impossible for me to unthread so I cut it. This did not cause a problem for the new install as the new converter ground connection easily fit both ends of the ground wires. Once the ground was disconnected I could disconnect the terminals to the battery and pull the unit.
Other notes. The power to the converter is supplied by just a regular outlet behind the electrical panel. I tested the outlet just to make sure the unit was getting power. My outlet was fine so was pretty sure it was the unit at this time.
Also, since I was in there behind the panel I checked that all the electrical connections were tight to the panel.
I did clean things up a bit in there which helped. Have a few zip ties handy.
Again, I could not get the unit back in the same spot but could get it screwed down with the same screws.
I wish I took more photos but could only find two that are not that helpful. The photos are of the battery terminal and I think they are removed using an Allen wrench. The cables go to the subfloor.
Finally you never need to touch the wiring on the panel. It simply unplugs. The challenge is getting the unit out and the new one back in.
As a funny note, when I was checking the fuses I dropped one. Of course it went down that hole in the subfloor. Careful there.
Don’t forget to turn off power.
Good luck.