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07-05-2012, 06:37 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 33
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Circuit breaker
Currently in Nashville camping at Two Rivers campground. When we first checked in it was about 101 and it felt like that in the trailer too. I had the air started and wife had a few lights on, fridge had jumped to shore power as well and the breaker popped. Reset it and we've been fine since. I assume due to the weather and the all the things using power that is why it popped. Last night about 2am, nothing on but fridge and air it popped again... Is this just a safety thing in the camper that maybe there was a surge in the area or something I should be concerned with. It's worked fine the entire time, just a random pop last night. With the coffee pot on this morning I could tell air was working hard, but once it brewed I turned pot off and we are back to normal.
__________________
Viz+wife= 2 boys, 1 girl
Toby our boxer
2006 2500HD LBZ CC LB 4x4
2011 Keystone Passport 3050
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07-05-2012, 07:01 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
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Are you talking about the circuit breaker in the camper and if so, which one popped?
Or do you mean the campground circuit breaker on their power post?
Kinda makes a difference in figuring out what happened.
__________________
'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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07-05-2012, 07:08 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 33
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Inside the camper. The first time it was the whole camper. Second time (last night) it was the ac breaker.
__________________
Viz+wife= 2 boys, 1 girl
Toby our boxer
2006 2500HD LBZ CC LB 4x4
2011 Keystone Passport 3050
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07-05-2012, 07:09 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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You didn't say what breaker was tripping .... your main or the CG pedestal. You were most likely getting low voltage from the CG causing the A/C to draw more amps than the breaker could handle. (not good for the A/C) Best not to use it, but if you must turn everything else off and put the fridge and water heater on gas. If the water heater was on electric that was your culprit. JM2¢, Hank
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Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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07-05-2012, 07:14 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: WESTERN,CT
Posts: 2,095
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Hi there what you are most likely experiancing is low power supply from the camp ground too hot too many a/c running this will cause your a/c to draw more amps which will pop the breaker. lower the total load to run the a/c also give the a/c a break as to much current drw can damage the unit. many have to go sit in a lake or a river up to your chin to cool off. good luck
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BARNEY AND CHRISTINE
2010 MONTANA 3750FL
2005 DODGE 3500 DUALLY TD
2 RESCUE PUPS: SUSITNA AND CRYSTAL. RIP ALYESKA!
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07-05-2012, 07:19 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvizgo
Currently in Nashville camping at Two Rivers campground. When we first checked in it was about 101 and it felt like that in the trailer too. I had the air started and wife had a few lights on, fridge had jumped to shore power as well and the breaker popped. Reset it and we've been fine since. I assume due to the weather and the all the things using power that is why it popped. Last night about 2am, nothing on but fridge and air it popped again... Is this just a safety thing in the camper that maybe there was a surge in the area or something I should be concerned with. It's worked fine the entire time, just a random pop last night. With the coffee pot on this morning I could tell air was working hard, but once it brewed I turned pot off and we are back to normal.
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I keep forgetting about the water heater being on elec.
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07-05-2012, 07:28 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 33
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Thanks guys for the quick reply's. I put fridge and water heater on gas, and went out and disconnected the battery so the trickle charger isn't working either. Seems like air is running smooth now.
Btw... Battery/trickle charger. I've read the manual about the charger and it says that if the battery isn't at 100% that the camper will devote power to charging battery till it gets to 100%. During that time camper will not be running at full bore because of the draw to the battery. Any experience with this? Thoughts on 2 batteries instead of 1, or one very good battery? I currently have the interstate battery that came with the TT I'm sure it could be upgraded or do better with a partner next to it... Thoughts?
__________________
Viz+wife= 2 boys, 1 girl
Toby our boxer
2006 2500HD LBZ CC LB 4x4
2011 Keystone Passport 3050
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07-05-2012, 07:33 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
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Unless you do a fair amount of dry camping, there may not be a need for having 2 batteries. However, if you spend quite a bit of your time boondocking, then I would suggest getting 2 6v "golf cart" batteries as opposed to 2-12v. For 6v's, Trojan or Optima might be worth looking into.
There are numerous posts/threads already on the forum about this topic, so you might want to do a forum search of this topic.
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
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07-05-2012, 07:39 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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You should be fine with the battery charging from the converter("trickle charger") . The only thing I find that cannot be used with the A/C is the water heater. (My experience .... many run both on 30amp but I have never been able to with my trailers) You may damage your converter without the battery and you still need 12v dc for lights and control boards.
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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07-05-2012, 07:51 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
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If the campground is providing low voltage, you are going to continue to have problems no matter what you do in the trailer. That is why many of us carry multimeters or other voltage testers.
The fix for this lies in the campground office.
__________________
'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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07-05-2012, 08:26 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: WESTERN,CT
Posts: 2,095
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GOOD LUCK steve is right about the campground. and yes you can damage your converter with out a bttery. if you are going to dry cam then 2 6 volt battery's are the best way to go and add titan to your list. if not one good 12 volt should be fine. your interstate is a deep cyclye? and how old is it there is a date code molded into the side near the top of thatinterstate battery my be surprized as to how old it realy is. dealer fault not interstate. good luck
__________________
BARNEY AND CHRISTINE
2010 MONTANA 3750FL
2005 DODGE 3500 DUALLY TD
2 RESCUE PUPS: SUSITNA AND CRYSTAL. RIP ALYESKA!
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07-05-2012, 07:59 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankpage
You should be fine with the battery charging from the converter("trickle charger") . The only thing I find that cannot be used with the A/C is the water heater. (My experience .... many run both on 30amp but I have never been able to with my trailers) You may damage your converter without the battery and you still need 12v dc for lights and control boards.
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Are you saying I should leave the battery connected?
__________________
Viz+wife= 2 boys, 1 girl
Toby our boxer
2006 2500HD LBZ CC LB 4x4
2011 Keystone Passport 3050
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