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06-12-2016, 10:03 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Coos County
Posts: 28
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ALL RV'S Shower cold water blast
Cold water blast in shower..
The blast of cold water has to be stopped at the shower cold/hot valve. I am not talking about the on/off valve at shower head. Think about this! When you close the valve at the shower head the cold water has more pressure behind it that the hot water coming from the heater. That means cold water will push the hot water back into the tubing until both hot and cold pressure equalize. There is about 6 feet of tubing from the shower valve to the heater where the cold water might push back the hot only in the tubing. It might push back about 1 to 1 ½ feet. There is a check valve on the hot water side of the heater (to keep anti freeze out of the heater). YOU NEED A CHECK VALVE AS CLOSE TO THE SHOWER VALVE AS POSSIBLE ON THE HOT WATER SIDE.
I have read about this once in Trailer Life and Motor Home magazines that verified my thinking about the cold blast.
My 2016 Cougar 303SLR has a hot water line coming from the heater up to the shower and is around 6 to 7 feet long. Before starting don’t forget to DRAIN the hot water side by opening a hot water valve at the bathroom sink or shower and then the drain valve under the trailer. I removed the shower valve VERY CAREFULLY using a plastic putty knife to remove the silicone around the valve housing. AGAIN be very careful when doing this because of NO backing for the four screws that hold the valve to just 1/16 inch of fiberglass backing. You should be able to remove the hot water connection with your fingers. Do not pull it out at this time. In the compartment below remove side panels and look to the upper left of the water heater near the force air heater and you will see the Hot (red) and Cold (blue) lines coming from the shower. Follow them towards the heater and where you have room to cut the Hot side (red) leaving at least 10 inch of tubing on both ends if cutting near an existing fitting. Back in the shower pull the hot line up about a foot (DO NOT PULL IT SO FAR THAT YOU PULL THE OTHER END INTO THE WALL. YOU MIGHT NOT GET IT BACK THROUGH)
Cut the line about 6 inch from the connector and at this point install the CHECK VALVE. Push the line back into the wall and connect it back to the shower valve. Now go back down and reconnect the hot supply using a coupler. I did not need to cut out the amount from the added fittings because there was plenty of room for the extra length of the fittings.
I now have about a 1 second spot of cold before the preset temp comes back. WHAT A DIFFERENCE…..
I found all of the fittings I needed at zoro.com that claims to have more than 300,000 fittings. Everything cost about $15 including shipping.
The coupler, ½” CTS, PEX, White Product Number G4389287 Stock #16T737 PE10420.
Along with the coupler be sure to get the Coupler ½” inserts Product Number G4388255 Stock # 16T768 (Two each).
Check Valve, Polysulfone, ½ inch Product Number G2781064
Stock # 1DAT2 (No inserts needed with check valve)
PLEASE CALL THEM TO CHECK THE NUMBERS
These fittings are for PEX tubing.
PLEASE check these numbers before ordering just incase I have made a typing mistake.
This should work on any RV if you can locate the shower water lines going into the heater and there is room to cut/add coupling.
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06-12-2016, 05:04 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Solomons
Posts: 3,874
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Thanks. I might have to try this.
__________________
Tom
2019 Alpine 3651RL
2016 F350 CC DRW
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06-13-2016, 03:08 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 259
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We never turn our shower till we are done. With 10 gallons we never run out!
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06-13-2016, 04:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 3,153
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I actually do not shut the water off either and all is good, plenty of water.
__________________
2013 Premier 31BHPR
2014 F350 6.2L
Soon to be just DW and I
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06-13-2016, 05:10 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 1,271
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Shut mine off no problem
__________________
Navy 1980-1984
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06-13-2016, 07:09 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 783
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Sounds like a great idea if needed. I'm with the others on this one...we never turn it off till done showering! 12 gallon hot water tank.
__________________
Jeff & Jan - Retired & Full-timing since 2013
2019 Ram Big Horn 3500 Aisin 4x4
2012 Alpine 3450-RL
Double Coin 235/75R-17.5/16 J rated 125lb
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06-13-2016, 07:18 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Liberty, Texas
Posts: 5,034
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When I shut mine off, then back on, I step back a bit for 5 seconds. So far I'm good with it.
__________________
2018 Ram 3500 Laramie CC DRW LWB 4X4 Cummins Aisin 3.73
Reese Goosebox 20K
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4 LB Cabover
2023 CanAm Defender SXS
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06-14-2016, 07:49 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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^^^That.^^^ A grief tradeoff that I can live with.
__________________
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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03-20-2019, 01:16 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Mexico
Posts: 3
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Learned an important lesson from you - it's not just me but you also when receiving these "I don't need that" troll comments when explaining an invention or unique discovery of some sort. Always great to see it's not only me LOL.
I'd like to say thanks to you for pointing this out. I knew one day I'd get to the jest of it and you make an excellent point in that putting the check valve closer to the shower is the way to attack a problem that has been irritating the hell out of me since day one of RV ownership. I would have placed the check valve next to the heater and thus eliminated only a short part of that blast of cold.
Otherwise to those living in a parking lot somewhere with a constant flow of water and sewer while never having existed off a fresh water tank and pump, you guys are not RVing, you've just parked your current second home. Cut the cord, put away the TV and start rolling and living. It won't take you all long to learn to jump backward until you can get that check-valve installed ;-)
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03-20-2019, 08:18 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Mexico
Posts: 3
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The check valve is a month back ordered and the part number was different. I finally searched for just the words "Check Valve, Polysulfone, 1/2 In" and a generic version of the valve came up. I see that this valve has a 180F max operating temp and other valves have much lower temps, so that is something to watch out for over buying just any run of the mill check-valve.
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03-22-2019, 12:47 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 590
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I installed a Camco 1/2" Back-Flow Preventer (P#23303) on the hot side of the faucet and a KES K1140B-2 BRASS Shower Head Shut-Off Valve that totally shuts off all water (No dribble) and I no longer get the water temp change when shutting the water off while soaping up.
Here are the links to what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
__________________
Mike & Barb
2015 Keystone Bullet Premier 26RBPR
2018 Cedar Creek 36CK2
2017 Chevy Silverado LT Z71
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03-22-2019, 12:58 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Mexico
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNY Bullet
Camco 1/2" Back-Flow Preventer (P#23303)
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I looked at that valve but it doesn't state the maximum temp. The brass would take it but it all depends on the plastic parts inside if there are any. Nothing I saw in the specs if it is a hot water capable .... just a FYI.
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03-22-2019, 01:11 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonJuane
I looked at that valve but it doesn't state the maximum temp. The brass would take it but it all depends on the plastic parts inside if there are any. Nothing I saw in the specs if it is a hot water capable .... just a FYI.
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It doesn't, but on the Camco Website it is listed under their Water Heater Parts, so I was comfortable using it and it has worked all last season without failure.
__________________
Mike & Barb
2015 Keystone Bullet Premier 26RBPR
2018 Cedar Creek 36CK2
2017 Chevy Silverado LT Z71
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05-17-2019, 04:36 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Coos County
Posts: 28
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Cold water blast
“DonJuane” THANKS for the reply… Its sometimes best to just ignore some posts…
I’m sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. I had some medical problems along with leaving on a trip.
Also, that idea came from someone else with a little change from me.
THANKS everyone who had suggestions on how to stop this cold water blast.
I intend to keep trying till I can stop the temp change 100%. SORRY DonJuane but it seems that I just stopped about 50%.
My 5th wheel is a Cougar 303RLS 2016 and by just removing two panels in the pass-thru compartment I have access to the water pump, water heater and furnace all just behind the docking station.
I now have a Pex manifold (see photo) with a 3/4 inch inlet and (3) 1/2inch outlets. The manifold is 1inch in diameter about 8inch long. I am going to make sure the water supply connector is at least a ¾ inch adapter so I can make a ¾ inch connection to the Pex manifold. I am going to cut into the main water supply line and attach the new Pex ¾ line to the end of the manifold. From the ½ outlets of the manifold one will connect to the hot water only and one will connect to the cold water supply capping the 3rd one. I’m hopping that will act like a separate supply line to hot and cold. I’m also going to add a small check valve to each line to stop any back pressure I hope. I found a crimping tool on Amazon that cost about $16 instead of $60 and up at hardware stores. I intend to start this project in a few days. I have all the parts and tools just need Pex check valves.
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05-18-2019, 06:02 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: South Jordan, Utah
Posts: 2,222
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Saw this in Trailer Life: http://www.trailerlife.com/tech/10-m...h-wash-and-go/
Really simple and cheap. Ordered the part a few days ago $8. Waiting now for the free shipping to show up
Planning to install and use this next week. Will post results.
__________________
2017 Cougar 279RKSWE
2007.5 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
Retirement Training Completed
I think the little voices in my head have started a chat group.
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05-18-2019, 06:34 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canonman
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I just ordered one as well - looks interesting. Now, to see when it comes in; that confirmation in Chinese...or whatever it is, gives me pause...
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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05-18-2019, 11:26 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 1,942
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I turn mine off, point it away from me for 6 seconds then all is well
__________________
Dan & Serena
2019 GMC SIERRA 2500 HD SLE
2015 Cougar X-Lite 29 RET
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05-18-2019, 03:01 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 6,327
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We turn both electric and propane on and I brush my teeth, shower AND shave all in one shower and it stays hot. Your definition of hot and my dermatologists idea are probably a little different. She stopped my really hot showers years ago.
__________________
Jim in Memphis, Wife of 51 years is Brenda
2019 F450 6.7 Powerstroke
2018 Mobile Suites 40RSSA
2021 40' Jayco Eagle
2001 Road king w/matching Harley sidecar
2021 Yamaha X2 Wolverine 1000
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05-18-2019, 03:40 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canonman
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I wonder whether that will actually work. By the looks of it, it just moves the shutoff point from the shower head down to just after the taps. The problem as I understand it is that when you shut off the flow with the taps still open, some water from the cold supply feeds back into the hot water line.
IMHO, the only fool-proof solution would be to shut off both the hot water supply and the cold water supply before the regulating taps and do it simultaneously.
There is probably a mechanical way to do this, but (as an electrical guy) I think a couple of 12V washing machine water solenoids in the supply lines and some kind of waterproof switch would get the job done.
As a mechanical solution, maybe a couple of ball valves with linked controls would work.
Another solution inspired by Tinman is maybe just a non return valve in each supply line before the taps.
Ooops, didn't read NYBullet's post first.
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05-19-2019, 05:54 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Okanagan, BC
Posts: 916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNY Bullet
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Where did you install the back flow valve?
__________________
2010 Cougar 30RKS
2015 GMC Sierra Max Trailer
"Drinks for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2"
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