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  #11  
Old 02-01-2011, 03:02 PM
jje1960 jje1960 is offline
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Default Polar package

Actually, I've wondered about the heating of the underbelly without the furnace running. If using an electric heater inside the cabin and the temp is like 65, then the cold/fresh air intake inside the cabin is going to be pulling that 65 deg temp through the ducting, past the tanks, like designed for furnace use. Obviously one would have to keep the furnace fan on even if the gas is shut off. Not sure, but I believe that's the thought of the engineers when they designed it, the ducting is what is suposed to keep the tanks from freezing. Just a thought, cause our current SRX with the polar package is the first cougar we have owned, have not camped in severe temps yet.
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  #12  
Old 02-01-2011, 03:55 PM
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geo geo is offline
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Default On the Alpine

From all my investigation - which includes pulling panels, camera shoved into access holes, investigating the upper basement and lower basement after removing all basement panels, lifting duct work to reveal what's behind - it appears that the "heating" for the gray and black tanks consists of heating ducts that terminate at the valves. In other words, all heating is applied to the valves for the waste tanks. Valves are located next to uninsulated steel undercarriage beams, so the heat is basically focused on cold beams and valves. Little heat would go to the tank itself. I can see a duct heading down the "tunnel" to the fresh water tank, but what it's focused on heating back there, no idea. Perhaps mikell can provide that if he puts a webcam on a pole back there. Melinda might have some insight from their plant visit. I don't know. But I have an idea I just finished and am currently preparing for the Modifications thread.

So much for Artic Insulation.

Ron
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2011, 03:25 PM
mikell mikell is offline
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Well I have the camera mounted and a way to make the files smaller but snow removal has taken most of my time. I have a 100 site campground to plow but only 6 campers this winter. Probably this weekend after I shovel to the propane tanks to check them. They say nearly 50 in a couple of weeks snow to mud here we come
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  #14  
Old 02-05-2011, 08:28 PM
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mobile42 mobile42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BScott View Post
So, What is the best camper to use in cold weather?
We (and the DW) just picked up our new 327RES this past Tuesday (2/1/11) from Fun Country RV in Anthony Texas. We had to stay overnight at a RV park in Las Cruces New Mexico due to the extreme winter conditions shutting down the interstate to Albuquerque. We were excited about staying overnight in it immediately so I filled my water tank up and disconnected the garden hose and everything seemed okay until the next morning, I guess my fresh water tank and water line froze overnight. Heater ran all night too! Good thing we had fresh bottled water for drinking, cooking, handwashing and restroom use. We had to shower at this RV facility. Finally made it home on Thursday and still trying figure what type of tank and hose heater I may need to install to keep this from happening again. It don't matter if you have the a RV Arctic insulation or a 4 Season Package, Mother Nature is brutal when the temperatures are minus degrees outside.
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Last edited by mobile42; 02-05-2011 at 08:31 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-05-2011, 08:56 PM
Harried Harry Harried Harry is offline
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Angry Frozen pipes

Although you were in your trailer, regular homes had frozen pipes. I live north of Las Cruces and the temperature was -8 for two days. None of my pipes froze, but I just finished replacing a pipe that burst two months ago, which means I insulated the h pipes and attic (R45).
My Cougar has heat tape on the tanks to keep them from freezing. These seem to work even when I am on battery. My suggestion is to heat tape all the tanks and outlets, then wrap everything with insulating bats for HVAC systems. It will help a lot.
My truck camper has polystyrene block insulation underneath, so you might consider adding that to your trailer.
Talk with the people at Fun Country; they might be able to assist you in your repairs; who knows -the repairs might be covered by the warranty.


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Last edited by Harried Harry; 02-05-2011 at 08:59 PM.
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  #16  
Old 02-06-2011, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harried Harry View Post
Although you were in your trailer, regular homes had frozen pipes. I live north of Las Cruces and the temperature was -8 for two days. None of my pipes froze, but I just finished replacing a pipe that burst two months ago, which means I insulated the h pipes and attic (R45).
My Cougar has heat tape on the tanks to keep them from freezing. These seem to work even when I am on battery. My suggestion is to heat tape all the tanks and outlets, then wrap everything with insulating bats for HVAC systems. It will help a lot.
My truck camper has polystyrene block insulation underneath, so you might consider adding that to your trailer.
Talk with the people at Fun Country; they might be able to assist you in your repairs; who knows -the repairs might be covered by the warranty.


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I apologize for not correcting my trailer description on my signature. Once we arrived in Albuquerque, I crawled under this new trailer where the fresh water tank is located (at that rear) and attempted to remove the screws that hold that underbelly material to attempt to place heat tape at or close to the tank and water lines and I couldn't see the tank. There was another material insulating the tank (i guess). Keystone did a decent job but not enough to handle those minus degrees. I wasn't going to try to remove any material because it was all nicely pack and tucked like shipping a care package overseas if you know what I mean. The only expose pipe in this trailer is the one coming from the black water tank (and of course that won't be an issue). Both grey and black tanks and valves are not exposed at all to the elements. The only items expose are the drain pipe from the fresh water tank that does hang out 3 inches and the low drain outlets but that's it.
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2011, 07:57 AM
JMG1040 JMG1040 is offline
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Wink My two cents worth . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by stephano View Post
Thank you. The covered underbelly part makes sense but I'm not understanding where the dump valves would have anything to do with this and why the ride would be any smoother? Strange.
The enclosed underbelly is a feature that allows air to pass under your trailer with less turbulence therefore a smother ride.

Having your dump valve located up in the covered underbelly will keep the fluid in the waste tanks from freeze around the valves.
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2012, 09:53 PM
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Default Cold

i just bought a 2011 TT Sprinter 297RET i asked the salesman the same ? how cold can i safely go he told me 20 degrees, I was at the Milwaukee RV show today and another companys sales man said 0 degrees on a 5th wheel cougar, So i asked him how much propaine would i go thru at 0 degrees ? He then replied it depends, and he couldnt give me thoes answers because it depends then on wind speed and trees and many other factors lol back to square 1. But i feel the dealer i purchased from gave me the real world answer.
Let it Happen Campin.

Last edited by michael; 02-25-2012 at 10:07 PM.
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  #19  
Old 02-25-2012, 10:08 PM
Festus2 Festus2 is offline
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Michael:
Your pipes would most likely freeze very quickly if you were camped out in 0 degree weather for even a short period of time. At temperatures like this, I would not count on the "Arctic Package" ( or whatever name Keystone has called it) to keep your water lines and tanks from freezing.
Even at 20 degrees, your plumbing system will be at risk of freezing.
You are right, it does depend upon a number of factors - the length of time that your RV will be exposed to these low temps and the wind are probably the most important ones to consider - other than the actual outside temperature.
You have to remember that the Coroplast has all sorts of small openings which will allow cold air to quickly penetrate into that area and the insulation around those pipes and tanks in your Sprinter is probably non-existent. In addition, the amount of warm air provided by your furnace that actually reaches your exposed plumbing certainly isn't enough to offer much protection against below-freezing temperatures.
I certainly would not rely on what Keystone has described as the Arctic Package. Instead, I would carry out my own upgrades and modifications to ensure that I am better protected in freezing temperatures.
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2012, 06:57 AM
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michael michael is offline
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Default Cold Camping

Unless i take the effort to seal the under bellie of my trailer, insulate all lines and give the under bellie its own heating source i will winterize mine,

When i winterize i run Rv antifreeze thru my lines then open valves in the Rv and put air thru the lines and the water heater when i do this im carefull not to use to much air pressure To remove even the Rv antifreeze,

Ive noticed that in below zero temps even the Rv anifreeze Gels up.

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Last edited by michael; 02-26-2012 at 07:21 AM.
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