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  #11  
Old 12-27-2012, 01:59 PM
F&JE F&JE is offline
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Thank you for your reply Hank. That is the manual that I already downloaded.
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2012, 02:12 PM
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Steve, thank you for kicking my mind in gear. When you mentioned the water heater bypass I thought of where I had just been sticking my hand in to turn a valve to bypass the heater. I removed that panel completely and there behold is the back of the heater and I can see where the element is found. Let me explain that I am the female half of this pair and I wanted to do all the searching for information so I could get hubby to do the job. This form has been so helpful and saved many $$$$ by learning how to do the jobs ourselves. It taught me how to restring day/night shades. Thanks for all your help.
Behind every good man there is a good woman ..... pushing his head through that cabinet to fix that water heater. Keep talking to him while he is working .... if he is anything like me he may decide to take a nap once he gets where you can't see what he's doing. Happy New Year and travel safely, Hank
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  #13  
Old 12-27-2012, 05:29 PM
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mhs4771 mhs4771 is offline
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This is very interesting. Of the 2 TTs and 2 5ers we've had, all of them had access to the electric heating element right from the outside. A black oval cover over the 2 high limit breakers and below them another black oval cover over the electrical connections to the heating element, disconnect power, remove two leads and with a big socket remove the element. Believe some were Atwoods and some Suburbans, in a Fleetwood Prowler, Gulfstream Conquest, Keystone Montana, and Thor Redwood. So is the Anode Rod also on the backside? Not saying anyone is wrong, it just seems extremely odd to me is all.
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2012, 05:40 PM
Festus2 Festus2 is online now
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I think both the Atwood and Suburban have access to the heating element from the exterior/road side of the heater. Perhaps the poster was speaking about gaining access to the HW bypass valve - not the element - from the inside ???

The anode rods are at the same location as the heating element - at the exterior of the HW tank- at least they are on all Suburban tanks.
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2012, 07:15 PM
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Festus2, She was looking for the element on some older models they are on the rear of the heater. I have never seen one but I know they are out there. I don't think they use an anode rod, the material the tank is made of does not require it.

In 2003, Atwood relocated the Switch, Thermostat and ECO that was installed on the
back of combination 6 and 10 gallon Gas/Electric Water Heaters. A double switch is
now located inside the RV for convenience and a joint ECO and T-Stat is located on
the gas side of the water heater. This leaves only the relay and heating element on the
backside of the water heater.
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'07 Cougar Mods

Last edited by hankpage; 12-27-2012 at 07:18 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:24 PM
Festus2 Festus2 is online now
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Festus2. I have never seen one but I know they are out there.
Shucks! I thought you had seen everything .....
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  #17  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:42 PM
Bushman512000 Bushman512000 is offline
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Default Hot water tank...

I have never seen a heater with rear mounted elements or rods except the one in a fleetwood Motor Home every other one I remember had the door outside..Be a big wet mess if inside and a change was needed on any thing .Would it not?The water valves Yes bypass Yes and I use a rod in all units just to help the hard water not to plug the system up with scale.. Bushman..
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  #18  
Old 12-28-2012, 05:30 AM
jsmith948 jsmith948 is offline
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Remember when the hot water heater was a 12qt cast iron kettle hanging on the campfire?
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Last edited by jsmith948; 12-28-2012 at 05:31 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #19  
Old 12-28-2012, 03:08 PM
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Jack, I think you're really showing you age, most kids now a days have no idea what a cast iron Kettle is, yet alone what you would do with it. As to the electric heating element, our first TT was a 1991 Fleetwood Prowler 24M and access to the element was via the outside door (gas operation was strickly manual, you had to hold the valve in the on position and hold the lighter in there for what seemed like forever before the pilot would lite. Portable propane torch often worked better.
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Michelle & Ann Sullivan and 4 American Shorthairs
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