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Old 10-25-2011, 05:33 AM
ohiohideout ohiohideout is offline
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Default Steps to winterize your Travel Trailer

For all you newbs out there like me, I spent the better part of a week researching how to winterize my Hideout 38BHDS.

There are 2 ways to winterize: 1) Compressed Air or 2) RV Antifreeze

I decided to use to the compressed air option so here was my check list

Tools you will need:
- Go to Home Depot and procure 3 items (1 air compressor fitting, 3/4" NPT Male fitting and the fitting to mate the two together)
- Phillips ScrewDriver/Drill
- 1 -1/16" socket (or Crescent and Monkey Wrench)
- Portable air compressor and extension cord

How to do it:
- Turn off the water supply to your camper
- Disconnect the drinking water hose from your camper and remove the small water screen (store it or discard the screen and replace next spring)
- Remove the water pressure regulator and store
- Set your compressor to about 30 psi
- Connect fitting to your drinking water hose and blow out the hose until only air comes out
- If you have one, don't forget to blow out the 2nd garden hose connected to the other side of your Y-connector
- Take some ziploc bags and cover the ends of the hoses, then rubberband them closed
- Using the 1 1/16" socket carefully remove the drain plug from your hot water tank (accessed from a panel on the exterior of your trailer)
- To fully drain the tank, while the water is draining flip the pressure relief
- Locate and open all Low Drainage points (note: I noticed that once I flipped the pressure relief more water came from the low point drains)
- Remove wooden cover housing Hot Water Tank and flip the valve to bypass
- With the compressor still set around 30 psi connect the fitting to your city water connection
- Go inside the trailer and blow out kitchen sink lines. Turn the cold water on until only air comes out then turn on the hot water until air comes out
- Next, do the same process for the bathroom sink
- Next, do the same process for the shower (do this even if you never used the shower! I found that water was still in these lines even though we never used the shower)
- Next, do the same process for the Toilet
- Next, do the same process for the outdoor shower
- Turn on the Water Pump switch for about 30 seconds and open the kitchen sink cold and hot water lines
- Now you need to dump some RV antifreeze down each of these drains to push the water out of the traps and ensure that the traps fill with the antifreeze.
- RV Antifreeze in Kitchen sink (both sides)
- RV Antifreeze in bathroom sink
- RV Antifreeze in shower drain (even if never used)
- RV Antifreeze in Toilet (pours some into the toilet and flush so it goes into the Black tank then pour some with the flap closed to maintain a nice seal on the toilet)
- Pump up tires to max recommended pressure (and cover if you have them, use a breathable cover not a tarp)
- Thaw and empty your Fridge of all contents. Thoroughly clean it and leave the doors propped open
- Remove all food from your cupboard. Including non-perishable items. Can foods may freeze and explode
- Leave cupboards propped open
- Lubricate slideout seals with silicone spray
- Retract Slideouts to bring them in
- Disconnect the electrical power cord from the power supply. Cover the end with a ziploc bag and rubberband it closed
- Remove the battery and store in a warmer place like your basement
- Cover A/C unit with a breathable cover (not a tarp) or use an RV cover
- Thoroughly clean your camper to ensure no rodents want to get in for food crumbs or anything else
- Empty and flush all holding tanks

That should be it! $100 saved by doing this yourself!

NOTE: Cycling the slideouts is a debateable topic. One theory is that the more you slide them in and out the more of a chance you have to damage your sealings. The other theory is that if you leave the slideouts out then snow could build up adding extra weight possibly damaging the retraction devices. Also, like snow build up on your roof, I guess the water from melting snow could penetrate the slideout seals. FWIW, I decided to retract my slideouts.

Hope this helps!

Good luck!

Last edited by ohiohideout; 10-25-2011 at 08:16 AM. Reason: added last bullet point thanks to JRTJH
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:57 AM
mikell mikell is offline
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Location: SW Michigan
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After you blow everything out

Do it again

Doesn't hurt or cost anything and if you get a bunch of water keep doing it.

I have a whole campground to do.

mike

If you can leave the trailer plugged in do it. Just makes it easier to take care of things. Keeps battery charged

Last edited by mikell; 10-25-2011 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:32 AM
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JRTJH JRTJH is offline
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Ohiohideout,

Good checklist, but one thing you didn't mention (I'm sure you did it) is to empty and flush all holding tanks and the fresh water tank.
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2013 F250 FX4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS

Previous RV's
1971 VW Campmobile
1972 Dodge Camper 7500/Harvest Cabover Camper
1968 Airstream 26' TT
1972 Jayco Jayraven 20' TT
1966 Apache Tent Camper
1978 Dodge SuperCab/Real Lite Cabover Camper
1993 Ford F250 7.3L Diesel/34' Alumalite TT
1999 Ford SD F250 7.3L TF Diesel
1994 33' Seabreeze Motorhome
2005 Ford Ranger FX4/Sunlite Skyhawk Popup Camper
2010 Ford F150 FX4/Springdale 242FWRLSS
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:06 AM
ohiohideout ohiohideout is offline
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@JRTJH

Good point. I pay for emptying of the tanks where I am so I did not include these.

It is good for those who do not have a service to include these on the checklist.

@mikell
You are absolutely right. As a newbie I think I actually did the process 4 times but I was guessing that it was overkill
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:07 AM
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JRTJH JRTJH is offline
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Ohiohideout, overkill is never an issue when next spring your camper made it through the winter without damage. I've often gone back a couple weeks after winterizing and just recheck things, and pour a little more antifreeze in the drain, etc. It's never "too much" to redo things when the outcome means "sweet success"
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2013 F250 FX4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS

Previous RV's
1971 VW Campmobile
1972 Dodge Camper 7500/Harvest Cabover Camper
1968 Airstream 26' TT
1972 Jayco Jayraven 20' TT
1966 Apache Tent Camper
1978 Dodge SuperCab/Real Lite Cabover Camper
1993 Ford F250 7.3L Diesel/34' Alumalite TT
1999 Ford SD F250 7.3L TF Diesel
1994 33' Seabreeze Motorhome
2005 Ford Ranger FX4/Sunlite Skyhawk Popup Camper
2010 Ford F150 FX4/Springdale 242FWRLSS
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:06 PM
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justduit2 justduit2 is offline
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Location: Lebanon, OH
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Thanks for the post O-H. Good info I'm getting ready to winterize for the 1st time myself, and like you have been reading everything I can find on the subject. I think I'm going the blowout and then antifreeze route, saw someone mention damp empty tubes being a bacterial breeding ground, I know I've seen mold develop readily enough in empty tubing before, so I'm thinking never too safe . I saw a fitting that had a compressor quick connect on one side and hose fitting on the other on amazon, got ready to order it today, and it said 2 to 5 months for delivery . Think I'll be going to HD and find the pieces you recommend.

Also, didn't see the black tank flush mentioned, I've seen a few times to not to forget to blow it out if you've got one.

Mark
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:53 PM
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JRTJH JRTJH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justduit2 View Post
Thanks for the post O-H. Good info I'm getting ready to winterize for the 1st time myself, and like you have been reading everything I can find on the subject. I think I'm going the blowout and then antifreeze route, saw someone mention damp empty tubes being a bacterial breeding ground, I know I've seen mold develop readily enough in empty tubing before, so I'm thinking never too safe . I saw a fitting that had a compressor quick connect on one side and hose fitting on the other on amazon, got ready to order it today, and it said 2 to 5 months for delivery . Think I'll be going to HD and find the pieces you recommend.

Also, didn't see the black tank flush mentioned, I've seen a few times to not to forget to blow it out if you've got one.

Mark
WalMart has a hose blowout connection in their RV department for about $2.50. It's hanging with the regulators and brass hosee elbow connectors. I took that fitting, added a piece of black rubber windshield washer hose and plugged it into the air brush fitting I use to "sweep" the garage floor. Just open the low point drains, screw the fitting in the fresh water fitting on the trailer, push the compressor fitting into the rubber hose, turn it on and start opening and closing faucets... Be careful to adjust your compressor regulator to less than 40 PIS or so before you start.
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John



2013 F250 FX4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS

Previous RV's
1971 VW Campmobile
1972 Dodge Camper 7500/Harvest Cabover Camper
1968 Airstream 26' TT
1972 Jayco Jayraven 20' TT
1966 Apache Tent Camper
1978 Dodge SuperCab/Real Lite Cabover Camper
1993 Ford F250 7.3L Diesel/34' Alumalite TT
1999 Ford SD F250 7.3L TF Diesel
1994 33' Seabreeze Motorhome
2005 Ford Ranger FX4/Sunlite Skyhawk Popup Camper
2010 Ford F150 FX4/Springdale 242FWRLSS
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  #8  
Old 10-25-2011, 01:37 PM
ohiohideout ohiohideout is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
WalMart has a hose blowout connection in their RV department for about $2.50. It's hanging with the regulators and brass hosee elbow connectors. I took that fitting, added a piece of black rubber windshield washer hose and plugged it into the air brush fitting I use to "sweep" the garage floor. Just open the low point drains, screw the fitting in the fresh water fitting on the trailer, push the compressor fitting into the rubber hose, turn it on and start opening and closing faucets... Be careful to adjust your compressor regulator to less than 40 PIS or so before you start.

Yeah, I also saw that fitting but if it is the one I am thinking of it was just a 3/4" MNPT down to a piece of tubing 1/4". I wanted to just plug my fitting in the quick disconnect on my air compressor so I went with these components from Home Depot:

1 - standard Air Compressor quick disconnect 1/4" MNPT
1 - 1/2" MIP x 1/4" FIP (Watts Part # A-827)
1 - 3/4" MH x 1/2" FIP (Watts Part # A-668)

Connect them all with a little teflon tape and for about $6 you've got yourself a long lasting fitting that connects straight to your quick disconnect.

My camper is stationary so I only use the city water connection and never put water in the fresh water tank. FWIW, the fitting combination that I am referring will not work on my fresh water tank. I am not sure what fitting type the fresh water tank is but I am pretty sure it is not 3/4" NPT.
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:02 PM
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SteveC7010 SteveC7010 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiohideout View Post
My camper is stationary so I only use the city water connection and never put water in the fresh water tank. FWIW, the fitting combination that I am referring will not work on my fresh water tank. I am not sure what fitting type the fresh water tank is but I am pretty sure it is not 3/4" NPT.
The fresh water tanks on RV's are vented so trying to blow them out with air won't work too well. If you can blow out the line from the pump back to the fresh water tank, and then leave the drain on that tank open until it doesn't drip, that will be adequate winterizing.

Since you don't use the FW tank at all, you might consider sanitizing it once or twice a year to prevent mold, algae, etc.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:11 PM
Outbackmel Outbackmel is offline
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Default Winterizing add on info

We are located in N Georgia mountains where we leave the RV. I just completed winterizing this morning after enjoying a week of beautiful fall colors.

This past winter, we only had one (too many ) issue. Fortunately, I found it as I was prepping the RV for an early spring trip to Florida. It is a COMMON plastic failure and I just wanted to share with those using compressed air. I used that method for 3 seasons with only the one issue. This year, I decided to go with the fresh water pump; 3 way valve; and put anti freeze in all lines. The method also includes a line blowout to ensure all water is vetted. Then, anti freeze.

I am not going to bore everyone with details. It's an easy process but everything needs to be thought of as you go through the process.

THE PART I WISH TO CAUTION ABOUT: The water line that connects to the rear of the toilet is VERY LIKELY to hold a small amount of water which WILL expand and crack the connecting cap to the toilet. When you turn the water back on in the spring; watch out.....you know the rest of the story!!
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